pairomedicsfish
Well-Known Member
What types of information do you send with your knives? Do you have a spec sheet or card that defines the materials, construction methods and care?
Knife information sheet or card
- Thread starter pairomedicsfish
- Start date
Mr.Svinarich
Well-Known Member
On the back of my buisness cards I have a spot for steel, rockwell, handle material, and date of completion. Most people won't understand or appreciate other information. However, some information about the knife is very useful, a defininate for all knives sold IMHO.
pairomedicsfish
Well-Known Member
Thank you very much. As I get more experience and sell some stuff I want to do it right....I was thinking something like a makers information paragraph, you know, like a brief history and care of the knife portion and materials section.....something like a postcard size?.
rhinoknives
Well-Known Member
I include a short paragraph like a birth certicate of info that I type out on a sheet of paper. your postcard size would be fine. Steel, RC hardness, Handle material and a little info about care and feeding.
pairomedicsfish
Well-Known Member
Cool! So for once, I am thinking right!
C Craft
Well-Known Member
Here are some links to another site about this same conversation. I am still a member of this site but rarely even go there anymore! (Personal reasons, I don't get into bashing someone on the internet so won't mention what the reasons were)!
The conversation is a little more in detail but they are covering what you asked about as well as warranty! The second one has several good links with the last post by Phil Dwyer. Take some time to read though this and then you will be able to get an idea of what you might want to do!
http://www.bladeforums.com/forums/showthread.php/846624-Certificate-of-Authenticity-Warranty
http://www.bladeforums.com/forums/s...what-documentation-do-you-keep-for-each-knife
Here is an example of a blank one:
Here is the kind of info I use on mine. I use a paper that looks like old scroll paper to print it out on, it has my Logo in the background and for the text, I use this template and just change the info where the blank is to give the appropriate information!
The steel that this knife is made from was __________. IE, 1080, etc.
This knife was formed using the method of _________. IE, reduction / forging
The handle is made from ______ IE, Red Oak, and has a _________ IE, pickled finish; it is pinned with _______ IE, brass pins
The bolster is ________IE, hand poured Pewter.
The sheath is hand made and sewn with _________IE, linen thread; it has been given an _______
IE, antique finish and has _________IE, been embellished with a design custom made for this knife.
This knife has been designed to give you many years of good use. Please be careful and enjoy!
Clifton Craft
C Craft Customs
I forgot to mention I always sign and date it at the bottom by hand as a personal touch!
The conversation is a little more in detail but they are covering what you asked about as well as warranty! The second one has several good links with the last post by Phil Dwyer. Take some time to read though this and then you will be able to get an idea of what you might want to do!
http://www.bladeforums.com/forums/showthread.php/846624-Certificate-of-Authenticity-Warranty
http://www.bladeforums.com/forums/s...what-documentation-do-you-keep-for-each-knife
Here is an example of a blank one:
Here is the kind of info I use on mine. I use a paper that looks like old scroll paper to print it out on, it has my Logo in the background and for the text, I use this template and just change the info where the blank is to give the appropriate information!
The steel that this knife is made from was __________. IE, 1080, etc.
This knife was formed using the method of _________. IE, reduction / forging
The handle is made from ______ IE, Red Oak, and has a _________ IE, pickled finish; it is pinned with _______ IE, brass pins
The bolster is ________IE, hand poured Pewter.
The sheath is hand made and sewn with _________IE, linen thread; it has been given an _______
IE, antique finish and has _________IE, been embellished with a design custom made for this knife.
This knife has been designed to give you many years of good use. Please be careful and enjoy!
Clifton Craft
C Craft Customs
I forgot to mention I always sign and date it at the bottom by hand as a personal touch!
Last edited:
Sagebrush Blades
Well-Known Member
heres what i do, i also write in the open spot on the bottom right side the knife specs. (length, steel, finish, handle, style, price, date, and buyers name)
knife care
This knife is hand forged from 5160 high carbon spring steel so you have to remember that it’s not stainless so it will rust if you don’t take care of it, if it gets wet (or bloody), dry it off really good (canned air works really good) before putting it back in the sheath (and make sure the sheath is bone dry too) you can rub some wax on it to help prevent rust, what I like to do and have found it to be the best of all the methods I have tried, rub the entire thing with mineral oil (make sure you get it into the all small corners real well) handle and all and then rub some wax over the entire thing, most any bowstring or furniture wax will work but I prefer straight bees wax. if it’s really humid or your using the knife a lot you should rub it with oil every week or so if the air is fairly dry once a month will do just fine. there are many types of oils that will work but mineral oil is the best of all that I have tried (wd40, olive oil, vegetable oil, motor oil, neatsfoot oil and honing oil) wd40 and motor oil work very good on the blade but aren’t good for the leather sheath and will mar and discolor the finish on the handle
sheath care
The sheath is made from high quality vegetable tanned leather and stitched with waxed nylon thread (35# breaking strength) and I neatsfoot oil every part before stitching it together and then again before I put it in the mail. All they require is a good oiling every once and awhile, I oil them every time they get wet (probably over kill) and every month or so when not being used, I prefer neatsfoot oil if the leather is really dry but normally I use skidmores leather cream, Montana pitch blend or mink oil is also very good and most other leather or saddle care products will work fine.
If you sell, trade, or give away this knife please give them this piece of paper or contact me and I’ll send you another. if you have any questions, suggestions, ideas or problems please contact me, I can be reached at:
Connor McCalmont
1443 Miles City Cutoff Ekalaka, Mt 59324
phone: (406)-775-****
email: stu***@hughes.net
Connor McCalmont
Bladesmith
knife care
This knife is hand forged from 5160 high carbon spring steel so you have to remember that it’s not stainless so it will rust if you don’t take care of it, if it gets wet (or bloody), dry it off really good (canned air works really good) before putting it back in the sheath (and make sure the sheath is bone dry too) you can rub some wax on it to help prevent rust, what I like to do and have found it to be the best of all the methods I have tried, rub the entire thing with mineral oil (make sure you get it into the all small corners real well) handle and all and then rub some wax over the entire thing, most any bowstring or furniture wax will work but I prefer straight bees wax. if it’s really humid or your using the knife a lot you should rub it with oil every week or so if the air is fairly dry once a month will do just fine. there are many types of oils that will work but mineral oil is the best of all that I have tried (wd40, olive oil, vegetable oil, motor oil, neatsfoot oil and honing oil) wd40 and motor oil work very good on the blade but aren’t good for the leather sheath and will mar and discolor the finish on the handle
sheath care
The sheath is made from high quality vegetable tanned leather and stitched with waxed nylon thread (35# breaking strength) and I neatsfoot oil every part before stitching it together and then again before I put it in the mail. All they require is a good oiling every once and awhile, I oil them every time they get wet (probably over kill) and every month or so when not being used, I prefer neatsfoot oil if the leather is really dry but normally I use skidmores leather cream, Montana pitch blend or mink oil is also very good and most other leather or saddle care products will work fine.
If you sell, trade, or give away this knife please give them this piece of paper or contact me and I’ll send you another. if you have any questions, suggestions, ideas or problems please contact me, I can be reached at:
Connor McCalmont
1443 Miles City Cutoff Ekalaka, Mt 59324
phone: (406)-775-****
email: stu***@hughes.net
Connor McCalmont
Bladesmith
pairomedicsfish
Well-Known Member
Guys, thanks for such detailed responses. I truely appreciate it.