How to get a nice butt?

I find that doing the rough grinding to get the basic shape with the grinder (flat platen, medium wheels, and small wheels) and then switch to manual filing works best for me. I also use my caliper to make sure the different curves, swoops, or whatever are the same from one side to the other.

You can remove a lot of material fast and mess up the look your going for with a grinder. That's harder to do with files and it really doesn't take that much longer.

I like the butt a little wider (lol, can't type that without smiling), the coke bottle shape going towards the point is a good reference. Though I don't narrow too much past the mid point of the handle. Every knife I make I hold it in my hand and "feel" for any spots that would bug me when using it. Then I fix those spots.
 
Time and experience, both from personal use, and from clients....... The "coke bottle" shaped handle is strikingly beautiful and eye catching, which lends it's application to higher end collector pieces and/or those knives that will see minimal use.
The tapered handles (narrow front, wide back, and the upside down teardrop shape) tend to be favored over the "coke bottle" by those who put their knives through daily/heavy use. Why? The feedback I have received over the years from those who put their knives through daily/heavy use, is that the "coke bottle" shape isn't as versatile or comfortable when the knife is used in various holds/positions.

That doesn't mean one is better then the other, only that they are sometimes suited to differing circumstances. For those who are not there yet, there is often a huge "give-n-take" when building collector grade knives, versus "users". I often do things in the construction of "collector grade pieces", that I would not even consider in a "user", and vice-versa. For me, collector grade pieces are all about the "wow" factor, while ensuring that the knife can be used if desired. With "users", functionality is the primary factor.... but along with that, I strive to build them as appealing as possible.

As far as how I achieve each: The tapered upside down teardrop/"user" handle is first tapered towards the blade end on a flat platen. From there, it's slack belt, followed by hand to finish it out. For the "coke bottle", I still used the flat platen to first taper, although not as much as for the "user" type handle. I create the "dishes" on a "coke bottle" by roughing them out with contact wheels, then to hand with sand strips/torn belts. It's very easy to go too far on the grinder with a "coke bottle" handle...... and I work by: I can always take material off if necessary.....but once it's gone, I can never put it back. No better way to proceed slowly and with caution, then to hand work/sand.
 
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EdCaffreyMS said:
I can always take material off if necessary.....but once it's gone, I can never put it back. No better way to proceed slowly and with caution, then to hand work/sand.
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This ^^^. Early on I would try to do everything on the grinder and invariably make things uneven or just grind WAY too far. Now I stop and proceed by hand once it's roughed in.
 
Since you're talking rasping tight butts - what are some quality rasps that one might look into - and what 'grain' or courseness(?) would one want? I have quickly found as well that my ol' grinder does it's job too well on handle material...
 
Greg Rice said:
Since you're talking rasping tight butts - what are some quality rasps that one might look into - and what 'grain' or courseness(?) would one want? I have quickly found as well that my ol' grinder does it's job too well on handle material...
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Regular bastard mill/bastard files for metal work are as good or better than actual wood rasps, in my opinion. I might want wood rasps if I was shaping the handle from scratch with zero power tools. But I have wood rasps.....and literally never use them.
 
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