Hamons, again

wmhammond

wmhammond

Well-Known Member
Morning guys, first a word of thanks. My ability to produce a proper hamon is improving and I am eternally grateful to membere here who have spent lots of time with me helping me get to the place I am now. I sincerely appreciate it. Funny thing, though, as I get better I encounter new problems that didn't exhist when my skill set was worse. Problem I.m having now is that after my final etch and polish I rinse the blade in clear water and rub the blade with my fingers under the running water. After I am through rinsing and while there is still a coating of water on the blade it looks fantastic. My next step was to wipe it with a paper towel and that prossess would leave slight streeks and discoloration on the blade. So I tried rinsing it and just letting it "drip dry" - same result, water spots.

The thing about these streeks or water spots is that they become permanent on the blade, so permanent that when I go back and polish these spots with 2000 grit paper they are harder to remove than the original etch patina. I can't help but wonder if something in my water is reacting with the carbon left over on the blade after etch and polish. Anybody ever had this problem and/or can anybody recommend a solution? Thanks again for all your previous help and for additional help here.

Wallace
 
I wouldn't put water on a finished blade after a final etch/polish.....for any reason.

Similarly, I would not wipe a finished blade with my fingers.

I'm assuming from your post you're using tap water? You have no idea what's in the tap water......or on/in the paper towels or your fingers, for that matter.
 
I'm just getting into trying hamons. After the etch, I dunk the blade in a water/TSP neutralizing tank and scrub it with an old toothbrush. I dry it off immediately with an old T-shirt and put 3n1 oil on it. I haven't had any issues yet.
 
J. Doyle said:
I wouldn't put water on a finished blade after a final etch/polish.....for any reason.

Similarly, I would not wipe a finished blade with my fingers.

I'm assuming from your post you're using tap water? You have no idea what's in the tap water......or on/in the paper towels or your fingers, for that matter.
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how long does it take for the blade to become touch-safe?
 
John Wilson said:
how long does it take for the blade to become touch-safe?
Click to expand...

Its starting to seem like letting any etch of any kind, whether mono steel or damascus, cure for 24 hours gives a more (I hesitate to use the word) durable?

But just the same, my personal experience is that touching any finished blade with my fingers at all was the kiss of death for scratches (from grit embedded in my fingerprints) or stains.

Finishing a blade is one of the last steps for me, if possible, and I try not to touch it or wipe it at all. I will oil it with a soft cotton make-up pad or clean micro fiber towel.
 
I know *very* little about etching anything, let alone a hamon. However, isn't it necessary to neutralize the etchant once removed? In my limited experience attempting to use ferric, it seemed as though the oxides got streaky and spotty until I got that part figured out.
 
tkroenlein said:
I know *very* little about etching anything, let alone a hamon. However, isn't it necessary to neutralize the etchant once removed? In my limited experience attempting to use ferric, it seemed as though the oxides got streaky and spotty until I got that part figured out.
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You might be on to something. I went back and re-read the original post WM didn’t mention neutralizing the etchant only rinsing with water. Most processes I have read about use windex to halt the ferric acid.
After I polish the blade with stropping compound I apply oil with a soft cloth.
That’s just my thoughts, others may differ.
 
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I use FC to etch that has been diluted with distilled water. After etching I move the blade immediately to another tank that is distilled water and baking soda. From what I’ve read and learned from others is this mixture to neutralize the etch. After neutralizing I give it a wipe down with a clean cloth and let it sit overnight. After that the blades have been good. Maybe give the distilled water and baking soda mixture a try. I’m mixing about a quart of distilled water to 3 heaping tablespoons of baking soda.
 
Don't laugh but you might consider using a hair dryer to blow off water immediately, then wipe the blade down with a micro-cloth. If the spots aren't a result of some unique hard water chemical reaction on the steel, I'd consider the atmospheric dust in the immediate area as a contributor. I understand the frustration of water spots on steel - but my experience comes from paint finishes, easily scratched by dry paper towels.

What's the last finish most of you use on blades? My son uses a silicone wax cloth and light gun oil - I use a misting car wax.
 
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