Hammer tapered vs straight?

In wood carving I use a tapered maul, but I haven't heard of one used in leather work.

I have a maul that has been modified for leather work, its more cylindrical and very heavy, its good for making large impressions in one hit, or for cutting strap ends.

In wood carving and leather work, the cylindrical shape makes for more even impact, off centered shots are normally hit as hard as centered shots.

With a flat face, off centered hits cause glancing blows and uneven pressure on the tool.

I have two mauls, and two mallets, and use them evenly and to their intended purpose. The heavy maul makes fantastic impressions on my makers mark in one hit, no double vision.
 
http://www.barrykingtools.com/hammermallets.htm

these are for leather, I think? Just don't know what the Tapered one would be used for? This guy makes some nice looking tools.

This question is about leather working tools, so I thought it would be ok to post it here? As I only make sheaths, so why not get tips & ansers from sheath makers like you all, at least that was what I was thinking? If this is the wrong forum for such questions I'm sorry, I'm new.
 
No, this is the right place to ask about leather tools.I suspect that many have not used different mauls so that is why few answers.I was recently given a nice,new Weaver straight maul (looks just like Barry's) after 20 years of using a mallet and I love it.I would assume that the difference between straight and tapered has more to do with comfort than anything.Dave:)
 
Chef I use the maul shape which is round and cylindrical, and mine are non tapered style. I use a 16oz., 26oz., and 48oz. I formerly used rawhide mallets, but once you get used to the round mauls I much prefer them to the mallet or hammer style. While the mauls are fairly expensive they are also virtually indestructible and will last several life times.

Paul
 
Some of the mauls work best with a stamp that has a pretty sharp end on it (unfinshed or unrounded) It helps to stop glancing blows. I think Barrys tools are made this way and work best on his mallets. (I'll have to double check on that)
I have lots of old Mcmillen stamps that have finished ends and I have real good luck with Bob Beards mallets. They seem to not glance as bad for me.
You can put a sharp edge on your stamps if they don't have one.

My brother uses a stamping stick on all but the larger stamps. All the old stampers prefured the sticks, saying it was easy on their wrists. I never could get used to them so he uses the old ones I got with my tools.
 
Paul Long said:
Chef I use the maul shape which is round and cylindrical, and mine are non tapered style. I use a 16oz., 26oz., and 48oz. I formerly used rawhide mallets, but once you get used to the round mauls I much prefer them to the mallet or hammer style. While the mauls are fairly expensive they are also virtually indestructible and will last several life times.

Paul
Click to expand...

Paul what brand do you use/ like?
 
I shot mr. King a email & here was he sad
The tapered one tends to let you keep your elbow lower with your wrist in
a straighter line. *Reduces fatigue for some. *It really depends on how
you sit or stand at the bench and how you hit the tool. *It is a personal
preference, kind of like flat vs round maul. *But the taper does help some
with the wrist, elbow, shoulder wear. *Hope this helps.
Sincerely,
Barry King
Click to expand...
 
I have used rawhide mallets for heavier stamping for years and have not had problems other than having to reface occasionally. For the lighter stamping I prefer the striking stick which uses a rotating wrist motion that is superb for walking the beveler or stamping backgrounds. I learned to stamp with the striking stick but you rarely see it used any more---pity! ---Sandy---
 
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