forge reflective coatings

bubba-san

bubba-san

Well-Known Member
Hey folks, I just finished repairing my forge liner , it had a few cracks , so I fixed them with some

refractory cement , smoothed it out and waiting for it to dry.

Previously I used a reflective UV coating called Blistix . to coat the liner with.

It seems to do a good job reflecting heat. however , It does not mix well with water and

will come off in flakes after 3-4 firings. It also has some hard rock like material that balls

up on forge liner !! it will not disolve . Basically I think it is a poor product . Does anyone

know of a smoother

coating that goes on better and is more durable . this stuff is like mortar mix that wont mix ?? I would sure appreciate some info. on it thanks Bubba
 
+1 for ITC-100.
The "balling up" you're getting might be caused IF your trying to put it on with the forge lining dry.....prior to applying any of the coatings to ceramic fiber or castable refractory, you should "spritz" it with water (the forge lining). The coating should be thinned down to about the consistency of latex paint, and applied with a cheap paint brush.....using more than that is just wasting product.

Drying is another critical part of the process. DO NOT try to rush it, or dry any of the coatings by "firing" the forge. Let the coatings dry naturally, generally over a period of 3-5 days, and it will stay in place, and last just as long as the lining.
 
Thanks Ed I appreciate. I used to do concrete work when I was younger and When repairing small spots I always would wet it down with sprayer, pretty much the same principle. The other product that I mentioned earlier would not break down or mix with water had small rocks or something about the size of a BB. What you are talking about sounds much better . The blistix seemed to work well as a reflective coating but was very fragile ." Mix to consistency of latex paint" sounds like something that will stick well. I bought about 150 new firebrick from Tom Clarks Estate last year. Eventually I will build a big brick forge , using the Jets , hardware from my old brick 3 burner forge . The brick is about 3" thick 9"x9" some are twice that big .Thanks a lot for info. ... Bubba
 
Bubba, I sell Plistix and suspect that it is what you are talking about.
If you have problems with it not mixing well and having BB sized lumps you may have had some other contaminate.
I have never found anything like that with Plistix.
I suggest that it be mixed with water to the consistency of oil stain (real soupy). It does not dissolve; it goes into a suspension and must be continually stirred while being applied. You can fire the forge after the product has dried.
I suggest that when building a forge that a blanket (such as Inswool) be used for a liner then cast a refractory over it to seal the blanket (ceramic fibers) in then after the castable has cured paint it with Plistix. I have never known it to flake off, but I have always used it as a top coat over the casting. If the Plistix (or ITC 100) is painted directly over the blanket I would suspect that it might flake off. Neither of these products have structural strength and are only an IR reflective product.

Building a forge with the castable refractory will build a tuff forge that you are not going to poke holes in and that will last for years. I have had teen age students coming to my shop for 6 years and my forge is still in good shape.

I recommend that any gas forge have a top coat of an IR reflective product, even a commercially built forge.

I sell the Plistix for $10.00 a pint. ITC 100 is about $40.00 per pint.
 
Hello wayne , not sure what the harder substance is ? may have absorbed some moisture and clumped up ? Thought of putting it in a mortar and pestal and grind it smooth and then mix it ? You have my interest when talking about a new forge ! Do you have a good design for a firebrick forge ? On my forge which Has ceramic floor and light weight castable material for sides and top. It is encased in welded steel. The floor material is great stuff , not sure what type of fire brick it is ? it is not affected by flux and never cracked. But the lightweight stuff buckles and cracks occasionally so I repair it with high temp mortar and then when dry, I paint it with a reflective coating . think I am ready for new forge . Like the idea of a bigger forge made from large firebricks. Any ideas ? Wont be able to take to hammer- ins but, It should do the job I want . I make a lot of bigger blades so, it would be better for me . Most of the bricks I have are 3"x9"x9" but I have a few the are 3"x 18"x9" those should make a nice bottom/top . the rest can be used for the sides. If someone has a design for brick forge sure would like to give it a try.... thanks...... Bubba
 
I don't have any designs for what you are talking about. I remember seeing those bricks when I was at Tom's several years ago. They are for building fireplaces and not forges. The hard bricks are heat sinks so I would suggest that you place them for the shape you want, line it with Inswool and then cast over that with Kast-0-Lite castable refractory then over coat it with Plistix. You will wind up with about the same thing as if you used a metal shell.

I hope that this helps.
 
Thanks for the info Wayne, I appreciate it . I talked to Tom Jr. last night and he said his dad (Tom sr.) built several forges with them ? I am not sure you were aware of it or not but, he had 1000,s of bricks and at least 7-8 different kinds, some of those were for fireplaces, these are very heavy dense bricks .check this link http://www.budgetcastingsupply.com/Fire-Brick.php the ones I have are from same company only bigger. Boy I sure miss ol Tom ! I wasnt aware you knew him , he trained me on a Saymak powerhammer. He was one hell of a smith . Too bad his son didnt carry on with the Blacksmith school . Toms wife is still at the school , no more classes and everything was sold , I sure got some good deals at the estate auction . They live about 2 miles from me . regards .......... Bubba
 
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