first surface grinders

S

soundmind

KNIFE MAKER
https://www.practicalmachinist.com/vb/antique-machinery-and-history/first-surface-grinders-257869/

Where this is coming from is that I can't decide if it's worth my time to try and taper a full tang knife by drawfiling. I don't think I'll get it any precise on both sides. I think if I mark it right, I can get pretty close. But maybe I should just drill some holes to lighten it up. But I like the look of a tapered tang so I'm going to research this a little more.

Anyway, I just found the above link. It has some other links on it that have some info I'm looking for. I thought it might appeal to some machinists on Knifedogs and wondered if anyone had any other info, links, or keywords I could search online. I'd like to learn the way this used to be done a long time ago so I can see how it'd work for me in my situation.

It seems like the surface grinder came around about the same time Alexander G. Bell invented the telephone. So I can't really tell if the machinists he used had these yet or not. We read an autobiography on him as a family book last year which required great dedication on my part as a father to get through. Anyway, I found a few elements interesting, one point was the inventor and his assistant's constant return back and forth to the machinists. He needed precision. And I know it takes precision in order to make something with precision. So I know there's a way to do it. Who knows it may be very simple for me to do.

I got to planers last time I searched it, and settled on drawfiling. I figured a wide, heavy file was going to be the best bet at the time. But I want to give this another go around. Anyone have any tips on what to research on this? Thanks.
 
One Armed said:
You are correct that drawfiling will not give you precision. A surface grinder attachment is what you want. The most economical way while still maintaining absolute precision, is to build your own. I first outlined this on Bladeforums over a year ago, and Ken quickly followed with his build here. From there many, many others have built their own. A high quality SGA, which will be as precise as any commercially sold, can be built for between $250-$300.

This is the best way to taper a tang. I'm sorry I can't help you with drawfiling.
Click to expand...

I'll take a look at what you built. I don't have a belt grinder, but might be able to figure something out with my bench grinder.

Another option I thought of is to set my file guide so I grind the tang at a super sharp angle straight on. As long as everything's laid out and marked even it'd be worth a shot.

There's a good thread on KD where a few members spelled out drawfiling pretty well. Thanks David.
 
Thanks, Garry, (sorry I called you Von before, I thought that was your first name).

That was a long video but very much worth watching. I watched half last night and the other half today. I sure didn't intend to bring industry back 500 years with my question. But it helps me where I'm at right now and he referenced some helpful tools and methods I'll look into some more. It was also good to watch someone else do it. (I don't mean instead of me) but for demonstration...:)

I've been thinking about putting the below sig line for awhile. I've got it on my file guide. I think with the methods in this video and my current process it's appropriate for awhile. ha ha.
 
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