danish oil with stablized burlwood scales

G

Grizzly Bear

Well-Known Member
Hey Guys,

I have a question about the use of Danish Oil on burl wood scales. I sanded my handle down to 1,500 grit and polished with Tripoli Brown. I thought that I should seal it with Danish Oil. I followed the directions on the can of Danish Oil: thoroughly coat and hang wet for 30 min, coat and wait 15 minutes and then wipe dry. Don't polish for 24 hrs.

When I first put the coat of Oil on, the scales glimmered brightly. By the end when I wiped them dry they were duller than before I even started this process. Do I need to keep putting more coats on and let them dry between coats and not wipe it off or is this the way it is suppose to work and when I polish them they will shine up again?

Do you even need to put Danish Oil on stabilized wood?

One more thing. Does anyone use clear exterior lacquer to finish their knife handles? I am thinking that this would be very easy to do and if sprayed on the bronze guard and pommel, it would keep them from corroding. Is this a good idea?

Your input will be greatly appreciated.

Thanks,

Grizzly Bear
 
Grizzly Bear,

I'm a newbie, but it's my belief that stabilized wood does not need an oil finish, just sanding and buffing. As far as the lacquer, I personally would'nt do it because I believe it would chip. Now, I could be wrong on both issues, but some of the more experienced dogs will chime in with better advice.

Bill
 
No finsih required with stabilized materials. As you have found, in many cases its counterproductive.
 
Thanks for your input Ed. I really needed it. I was scratching my head over this.

Experience is a great teacher. Mistakes that are noted and learned from will help me gain the experience that I need.

Grizzly Bear
 
About the only thing that I have discoverd that will enhance SOME stabilized woods is Tru-Oil. Particualarly stabilized redwoods, maples, and amboyna. If the woods are NOT stabilized, it will generally take 10-15 coats of Tru-Oil to give the depth and luster I seek. For stabilized versions, 1-2 coats will do the trick. Just make sure you apply it correctly..... coat it with a fingertip, don't let it set any longer then a minute, and then wipe it "dry" with a lint free cloth or paper towel. Give it two hours, a light hand buffing with #0000 steel wool, and repeat.

Speaking of Tru-Oil, I've also found it to be a great sealer for bead blasted micarta, G10, or other synthetics..... after bead blasting, a single coat of Tru-Oil, applied LIGHTLY, and then wiped "dry". It adds depth and keeps bead blasted sythetics from getting "gunked up" with oily finger prints and such.
 
My experience mirrors Mr Caffrey's. Stabilized...just polish. Non Stabilized.....Danish oil and then Tru Oil to bring out the luster.
 
Ed, is Tru-Oil the same as Tung Oil? I have used Tung Oil to finish cedar arrows and had good results. I know about Tung-Oil, I just don't know if Tung-Oil and Tru-Oil are the same.

Thanks

Grizzly Bear
 
Couldn't agree more - Properly stabilized wood doesn't need any additional finish. Having said that, some do like the different look and feel of an oil finish. One suggestion would be to skip the tripoli. Anything wax based will be darn near impossible for subsequent finishes to stick to.
 
Thanks for all the input guys. I sanded off the Danish Oil dried residue and finished again with a Tripoli polish plus a clean buff. It looks great. If I can only keep my hands off of it! I keep seeing things that I could make look better.

Grizzly Bear
 
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