Best backing for mammoth tooth

D

Darrin Sanders

Moderator
I'm about to try my first mammoth tooth scales. I know it needs to be backed with something first. I'd like to hear some thoughts on the best backing material, and any other tips/tricks for working this material. Would like to try some 1/16" micarta if anyone knows where to get some. Thanks in advance for any and all help.


Darrin Sandersluvsite1
 
I believe mammoth tooth is about the most difficult material to work with other than stones, agates and such. The first thing to do is to place the scales on a plastic bag and go over them both sides with CA thin glue. If you now can see cracks go over them again. If you are buying this for the first time buy the odorless kind. It has a very strong aggrivating smell and you definitely will be using it more than once. As you said its best to start with a liner glued on to the scales after you have taken care to grind them level. I recommend the regular thinner liner material . The white areas that separate the coloured ones are most often super brittle. Perhaps you can plan your screw holes if these are going on a folder so they miss this material, but this is almost impossible in most cases. I usually start any grinding on the tooth scales with 120 grit but may go to 60 grit. As soon as you see more cracks or soft areas use more glue. Oh yes I didn't tell you that even when dried when you grind on the scales the smell of the glue can be overwhelming. To drill holes you will most likely need carbide drill bits and don't forget the cutting fluid. Do as much work as you can on your belt grinder and then go to hand sanding to at least 800. Buffing will give you a very textured but not terribly bad look. I hope this helps. I would like to help you more and I will if you have questions but I'm gone until the 28th. I have threatened to quit using this material but still do more. To see some of the ones I have done go to customknivegallery.com and scroll down on the makers list on the left hand side. I hope this helps ast least some. Frank
 
Thanks Frank, I've been wanting to try this stuff but have hesitated because I've heard it is a pain to work. Wound up winning a couple cheap bids on E-bay so I guess its time to give it a go. If these tips work as well as your mobil 1 trick I should be OK. I'll be sure to post some pics if all goes well. Thanks again and MERRY CHRISTMAS.
 
darrin I just started using acriglas and its really good. All the makers ive asked wont use anything but.
 
I have only made a few, so i am no expert on mammoth tooth. But I have a tip or two that has helped me...
I use regular vulcanized fiber liners, glued up with my standard epoxy. After flooding both sides with CA glue like Mr Niro said.
Use only new sharp belts and new sharp metal cutting bandsaw blades. Use light pressure only, let the grit/blades do the work. Don't over heat.
I have had no problems drilling with standard drill bits, dry and no cutting fluid, but I use only bits that are new or newly sharpened with my Drill Doctor (one of those gadgets that really works).
Keep some of the powder from the scales after you cut it or drill it. In the likely event you have a chip out where a pin hole is, or on the very edge of a scale, you can fill it by using clear epoxy and mixing in this powder dust from the grindings. It'll fill in and be invisible.
I have always used brass bolsters on front end and back end of handle, for protection. I kept one knife, and use it. I have dropped it on concrete floor by accident before, put a little ding in the brass. But no harm to the mammoth tooth. You can use smaller pieces of mammoth if you use double bolsters, as well. Smaller means cheaper.
I like to dovetail all bolsters but that is a personal preference.
Dan
 
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Thanks Dan.
I will try the new bits rather than the carbide. I've had good success with just the epoxy for repairs but I may also try the "dust" thing. Help can come from anyone, I learned, a long time ago. Frank
 
Hey Darrin, I use a lot of mammoth tooth but it sounds like these guys have you pretty much covered. I do it preety much the same way. Start with the CA glue. When it is dry flatten the back side and glue on the spacer before you do any thing else. It will help streangthen things up a bit. I use vulcanized spacer or G-10. Alpha Knife Supply http://www.alphaknifesupply.com/micarta.htm has the g-10 in just about any thickness & color you want from about .003 all the way up to 1" or so. I like them to be around .030 or so. I to just use regular drill bits, but they must be very new and sharp. Same with the sanding only use new and sharp. I also keep some the dust from drilling the holes to patch anything up. I take the dust left over and kinda dump the dust in any holes or chips and then put a drop of the CA glue on the dust and it fills in nicely. Hope that helps look at my blog to see some finished mammoth tooth handles. You might have to look at the older posts to find some. Thanks
 
Thanks for all the help guy's. Got some thin G-2 from chuck in the mail today, and the CA is drying on one side of the scales as we speak. Think I'm Gonna do up a little bird & trout with some 12C27 & 416 SS hardware. Will post pics when finished.
 
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