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Politics and world economics aside, I'd be sure to read the fine print on any shipping contract. A lot of the larger freight items may still include import duties/taxes and you may end up owing additional fees in the hundreds or even thousands of dollars range. Then there's the matter of...

You have to use a narrow belt, and/or favor just the corner of your platen with the belt tracked over. Just be careful not to slice your belt. If you can reverse the belt, all the better.

I bought the P700 with the stencil tape a couple years or so ago. I played around with it a bit, but never used it to mark any knives. The labels are definitely a "one and done" sort of thing. My biggest issue, as loffman points out above, is that it does have a low DPI, so that small font...

Wish I'd have seen that drawing before I made mine! hahah Actually, it looks like I got pretty close just from eyeballing, so all's well that ends well. ;) Here's mine: And here's a test clamp on the first "body" that I messed up on. I used a wire that's probably twice as heavy as it needs...

That's pretty slick. No doubt a little more economical than other hose clamp options, and it also eliminates the need to have a bunch of different sizes. You may have just caused me another project.

From my understanding, most of the dimples/stress points are typically ground or polished out, if the dimples are even noticeable. I do recall seeing a demo from Murray Carter where he hammered on a blade for about 15 to 20 minutes only to have it snap in half at the end of the demo. :oops: I...

Most auto punches have a tension adjustment that can increase or decrease the force of the punch. I'd also probably modify the point to not be as sharp so that the dimples aren't as deep or sharp.

I made a "straightening punch" out of an old carbide endmill and a scrap of round bar. Just drill out the center of the round bar, taper to taste, insert your carbide and shape the end to a rounded point with a diamond wheel, or chuck into a drill and work with a diamond pad. I too was surprised...

Good catch. I didn't see that.

BTW, if you go with a controller similar to the one I posted, just make sure it can handle the wattage on your oven. Most small toaster ovens are probably only 1000 to 1100W or so, but if it runs a little higher than that, there are similar controllers out there with higher capacity.

If you want to save a few bucks while simplifying things quite a bit, they do make "plug and play" temp controllers like this one: https://amzn.to/3vmyMc1 Just plug your oven into the outlet, insert the TC (you'll probably want to drill a hole somewhere around the middle side or rear of the...

If I'm not mistaken, USN was in the middle of migrating servers/upgrading the forum software when they ran into some issues. I believe the owners of the forum had a house flood or something as well. They do have a Facebook group for the interim ("USN V2" if I recall), and I believe there was...

My in-laws live on Pine Island. My father-in-law was home during the hurricane. My mother-in-law happened to extend her visit to my house an extra week, so she was here with us in Indiana. Unfortunately, it looks like they have lost nearly everything. Communication has been spotty to say the...

Looks good! I think I remember seeing something similar at my last job. We used it for making gaskets for some of valves we worked on and what not.

The vast majority of makers who use shield are using traditional shield patterns. As others have said, they're available from a small number of suppliers. (IIRC, Leading Edge Fabrication still offers them, as well as the parser plates.) There's no set rule per say. Then again, there are a small...

Cool design. On the next one, I'd try adding a primary bevel to thin the edge out even more, or even just taking your edge up a bit higher. For cleaning up excess epoxy squeeze out, I normally do one of two things: 1) I'll let the excess dry to a semi-hard state and pick it off with a sharpened...

Best thing you can do is report the individual posts as spam and move on.

I've got a pile of 1/8" shank carbide endmills that I've broken one way or another. Last night I chucked one into my hand drill and rounded the end off with a ceramic belt. I then just press fit it into the end of a scrap piece of 9/16" diameter stainless round that I had laying around, and now...

Well, I just tried your advise, and now instead of a U shaped blade, I have a W shaped blade. :rolleyes:

If you can, get a mill with an R8 compatible spindle. Along with that, you'll need an R8 collet set. I wouldn't recommend getting the cheapest set you can find, but you don't necessarily need the most expensive either. Next you'll want a decent Vise. Get an actual milling machine vise...