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Mineral oil is food safe and better at rust prevention. Your local drugstore calls it baby oil.

If possible try to find chrome tanned leather. It is tough and hard. Skive the ends with as long a taper as you are able. Use flexible long cure epoxy or urethane adhesive. After the ends are joined they will need some reinforcement. I like to use tyvek. The mailing envelopes that the post...

Shopsmith used to make a variable speed belt drive bench without all the woodworking units. It was made to mount the addons. I picked one up at auction for $50, removed the legs and put it on my wheeled grinder bench. Add a disk and go. The drive shaft is double ended so you can reverse the...

One thing to consider with VFDs is rf interference. If you have neighbors this can be a major annoyance. The better units are shielded but there are some out there that will kill radios for thousands of feet around. I had to toss one one of those even though it did the job fine.

Technically a VFD can output just about any frequency but the motor will have limits. Too slow and the fan will not cool the motor. Too fast and the bearings will fail prematurely.

I did contact the designer. The program is Sketchup. It will export 2D CAD drawings but Jeremy did not make any. All you get is a 3D model that does not export as a standard format. A person could make his own drawings of course, but I've already had to learn CAD in three different programs...

I checked out this grinder and all the youtube videos for it. Unfortunately he used an off the wall program to design it. Instead of drawings you will need to scale the parts from his assembly. It will be tedious and you will need to keep your computer in the work area. You will also need to...

I think it unlikely that a saw blade would be made from shock resisting steel. It would also be an unusual choice for a knife blade.

I would want to be sure your customer understands that bluing will wear off rather quickly on a user knife. Nitriding is a much better option, but definitely not a do it yourself option.

Too much pressure.

I don't use a handle with needle files. It just encourages too much force.

I can see both sides of this argument, but filing hardened steel is serious abuse of the tool. For doing that I use a diamond abrasive file. Like any tool they are available in various degrees of quality as well as grit.

I realize this is a little old but I just got around to it. If you still care, C1 through C4 are basic designations for soft through hard carbide. for our purposes it is not important. They are all harder than the abrasive. There are other specs but you are unlikely to see any of them ever...

You don't need to grind. They are available with uncut faces from the manufacturer.

Improving These are my fourth and fifth attempts. I still don't have a belt grinder but I think they are getting better. The blades are sanded to 2000 grit but I need to get a clean buffing wheel. The stone is polka dot agate and the walnut is from a scapped hat rack.

The reason you won't find information on A2 for springs is that it makes a very poor spring steel. It is not really appropriate steel for flexing.

Is anyone looking for a hardness tester? https://hgrinc.com/?all=1&view&aisle&from&to&markdowns&newarrivals&sort&kw&per_page=48&min_price&max_price&pn=4&search_type&last_chance=1 Just stumbled on this one looking for something else.

Traditional rust blueing will give a very durable finish. Cold blue rubs off pretty easily. Rust blue is a lot of effort but the rsults can be as good as hot blue.

I tried Chrome for a few months while I messed around with the settings. In the end I decided it did not give me the control I have with Firefox so I went back.

As a machine designer I have specified 3000 psi to get the operation time down to an acceptable level in production. I also specified heavy duty hydraulic cylinder, armored hydro lines, and shielded connections. All that drives the cost well beyond what a more moderate pressure would be, even...