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For the prices I see charged for their knives I'd expect better fit and finish. Gap at handle is unacceptable Personally not a fan of primitive half finished blade. Might be trendy but if I'm buying a damascus /pattern welded knive I want to the the pattern not forge scale

I'd shoot Ed an Email, (available on his website). From what he showed me I don't think damascus billets or canister would work due to small area inside the field that actually heated, and coil limitations..But he's played with it more so he might have a better idea

I occasionally get some training from a guy I consider a good friend. He still makes me sign a waver. Im more than happy to do it. His shop his rules

Watch the good knife makers. they all keep elbows in, wrists against the body and have a stable stance that allows for smooth side to side motion. As I said also watch your sparks. If your sparks start trending to one side or the other on the platen then you are twisting/rocking the blade...

Rocking the blade on the platen. Pay more attention to spark shower. If its not even across the entire platen face you are Rocking the blade. Elbows in tight against body and a smooth side to side flow

Lack of interest might be attributed to a generational gap and as mentioned today's craftsman have had it pounded into their heads to avoid mystery steel or used springs. Name familiarity is also a problem. Some of the older makers might remember Rudy's name but to the younger makers he's...

Probably should have started a new thread. While it might be a valid topic the last post is 9 years old.

Thanks for the replies. Real interesting thread

Dog gone it gang. I feel someone tugging at my wallet. Question . Since the flat of the blade is slightly angled in relation to the cutting table does it cause a reduction in depth of laser cut. Thanks for an interesting thread

As to rust. I get rust mostly on cut edges. Minimal rusting on flats regardless of its steels cleanliness. Might be the water he's using that causing that much rusting

Check you holes diameters to ensure you can use your fasteners. You'll notice every jetted edge has a slight taper to it

FYI check out K-bar site. you can purchase a complete handle kit from them.

Before Ed left he pretty much wiped his comments clean. You can contact him at his web site and forum

Kabars version of the buck folder that someone engraved. Ebay has several for sale 35-45 $ range

Save the squirrels unless you just have a hankering for squirrel stew. Just get a steak out and wrap the handle in it, bag it and store in fridge a couple days. Be sure to wipe any oils off so you dont taint the steak. Course some folkes might like a little gun oil as a marinade.

I'd suggest visiting site called Knife Steel nerds and view their recommendations. Good information on normalizing, annealing and grain refinement cycles. Ive had good success with his numbers and they are based on his testing.

Just went back and reread the damascus portion of that book. Copyright 1987. At that time he was using a high carbon/low carbon welding. He used thin pure nickel of he wanted contrast.

Did something similar. Couldn't figure out how a shaded area developed on a damascus blade I was working on. I'd split cold blue on a piece of hide I cover my work area with. Didnt think about. But even though I'd covered the now dried spot with a paper towel the wet blade sitting over that...

you might try doing some deep research on this and other forums. I know there was an interesting thread a few years back on shields on another forum you asked this question on.

In spokane area we are just opposite. Been longest wettest and mild temps that I can remember. Don't think we broke 80 officially. Fired up forge for a small job and it barely broke 90 in shop.. Course when it does decide to warm and all this grass dries out that'll be another story. Got to...