Wow, that's a sweet deal. I just bought a rams rockford for $200 but it didn't come with a perpetrator or blocks. I'm not sure how good they are but it looks to be in good condition.
I found a local guy selling a Wilson brale c diamond penetrator and three test blocks in a kit. He wants $200 for them. The blocks still have plenty of space for tests. I'm in the market so what do you think. Is this a decent deal?
Yeah , it's one of the better places on Florida if you like the outdoors. Ill look around locally and let you know if I can't find anything. My father has a lot of tool bits for his metal lathe, ill check with him first. Thank you for the help.
I just got some 1075 from Aldo and was wondering if 1500f was were I should start for the austenizing temp. I'm working on a 1/4" chopper. I read that 1500 was good and also read it needs a little higher temp. Just looking for a good starting point.
I think a lot of people like the sharp edge on the spine for fire steels but someone recently did a video of using them with a rounded spine and it worked just as good.
I don't have a problem with getting it sharp just wondering if there was a issue with my heat treat. I sometimes have issues with getting the bur off but not always. I will make a mental note to see if it is due to the edge thickness. I may be leaving it to thick like your saying.
Ill have to find the broken pieces and look again, maybe it was just the way they broke. I have a 1450 tempilstik and it shows my oven reading 10 degrees low. I need a couple more to get a better range. I have w2 from Also. It looks to be precision ground.
I did a lot of testing with 1/4" w2. 1460 seems to be the best temp for my oven. 1470 will start to give me a little grain growth. I will have to break the 1/8" w2 and check my grain. I will get some ATP-641 thanks. I was under the impression that as long as the temp was proper time wouldn't...
Thanks for the response Ed. I was under the impression w2 needed 8-10 minutes to soak. I used 5-10 min extra to come up to temp. That being said with 1/4" I get better results than I did with the 1/8". Maybe that is because since it is thicker it is taking more time to come up to temp therefore...
I was wrong, it did harden but I had to grind a lot of steel before the file would skate off the blade. I assume it was decarb but I usually don't have to grind that much away before the file skates.
I tried quenching a couple w2 1/8" profiled knives in water. I didn't grind the bevel yet. I'm just playing around and I usually quench in parks 50 and have been happy but just wanted to experiment. Neither knife hardened. There was a lot of the boiling type activity going on and I used my same...
Thanks John, great info. I never take the bur off when progressing through the belts. Ill definitely try it. I'm using W2 but the last two knives I did were Abe-l and I had that problem.
I have been having issues with breaking off the edge bur. It doesn't want to bend the other way when stropping or through wood. It doesn't bend or break without a lot of pressure. This is with a .oo1" primary edge.
Is this good or bad?
I love 5160 but I have some customers who want a parang with a hamon. I did one in 1084 and It got a lot of attention. I'm afraid they will lose interest if I wait to long but maybe I should make a couple with 5160 in the meantime.