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Thanks Mike! Easy solution.

:confused2: Any ideas or suggestions as to how to prevent epoxy from completely filling in my filing when I glue the wood scales to the filed tang???

For the first time, I'm using filework on a couple blades I'm building. It's occured to me though, that once I'm epoxying the handle scales to the tang, the filing is bound to completely fill up with nasty epoxy; as I don't THINK I'll be shining up the insides of the file cuts, the epoxy is...

I want to build a smaller full tang hatchet. I think I 'd like to use 1/4 or 5/16 inch stainless (I see Gerber builds one using stainless, so...), but I refuse to pay the HUGE prices for CPM154 or some of the other "elite" steels. Also, I THINK I need a martinsitic steel as I'd like to have it...

Curves in the bolster, yes. The primary (profile?) curves are fine; I've cut them exactly as you have described... what I'm now trying to do is add a chamfer or bevel to the top edge of that inside curve on the bolster... cut is 1/8 inch DEEP, 1/16 inch IN (or thereabouts) at 30 degrees...

Yup, pretty much. Inside curves are killing me. The belt grinder/disc grinder is fine for straits and outside curves, but damn, I'm butchering inside curves (like 1 inch dia. or less...). MSC? Will Google know who that is? I'm good to 3/8 shank, or 1/2 with flattened grinds; just haven't...

It always amazes me when I see 2 perfect, symmetrical edges on the same blade! My first inclination or thought is... "machinery"!!! There are a whole cluster of variables to overcome and the odds against perfection have to be huge. This in mind, I rigged a jig for my belt grinder (actually...

So, I'm looking for a bevel-style "bit" to fit into my drill press which will grind a good bevel (ideally, 60 degrees from vertical) in my bolsters (untempered 416 stainless); I presume I'll need a diamond-impregnated type but cannot find any such animal on-line. With the number of tools for...