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Single flute. -John

This is what I'm getting. http://www.pennstateind.com/store/DC250SEMB.html Just blow it right outside. No cans. No bags. No fires. -John

I like it. Thanks for posting. -John

All you need to taper the tang is a flat platen and a wheel. The wheel will help carve out some of the tang so you have less to remove. Tapering the tang is the way to go. Drill a few holes for epoxy to flow though and for you corby bolts or pins first. I drill two at the front of the tang...

Thanks everyone! -John

All right! Congrats! -John

Thanks everyone. Davin, we will have to get together some time. James, where have you been man? Good to see you. -John

Thanks everyone! Eric, I don't do it any different. You should do fine. -John

Thanks Eric! I appreciate it. -John

Prayers sent. Hang in there bud. -John

The blade can be shortened, but will have to be reground. You have to do it slowly so it doesn't get too hot. -John

My Hokkaido design with new swedge grind. This one is CTS-XHP 3/16" thick at the ricasso. Bead blast finish with 6" cutting edge. Overall length is 11.5". Rockwell hardness is 61. Scales are bead blasted black G-10. Tapered tang. Kydex sheath with bead blasted stainless steel hardware...

Welcome back! -John

Welcome to KD Tommy! -John

Welcome to KD! -John

Welcome to KD David. -John

Welcome to KD! -John

I've tried Windex and WD40. Mobil one is my favorite. -John

Todd, I don't think it's frowned upon, but I don't see the point. Oil can be messy and it can catch fire. I for one don't want to be taking foil off a glowing orange blade. By the time you take the foil off it will have already started cooling significantly. You can plate quench it in a...

Use Mobil 1. I know you already do. Just kidding. I use it too. I wonder if you can take S35VN to that fine of a finish. It may not give you the finish you want at that grit. Most makers I know aren't going that high. Myself I only go to 600. -John