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Another vote for Bos. The larger your "batch of same steel" the better the price.

The gcarta stuff is nice. I have a few laying around and I did a filet knife awhile back. They have a few instagram videos on how to best use it - sanding, finishing, etc. I was using some of the higher grit sandpaper that was black and it kept darkening the material. Same goes for whatever...

Getting the scales to line up when doing hidden pins. Attach the first scale, then drill pin holes/glue pins, when dry put a little paint on the pins touch the second scale and it marks where to drill on the second scale.

I misunderstood. I thought you wanted to keep the texture that was on the pins and was just giving my opinion saying I would sand them to smooth. Tape should definitely do the trick. Other options for "next time", maybe consider hidden pins? That way you don't have to even risk the texture of...

Are they just solid stainless? I would probably sand them until mirror/no scratches.

Gift for my daughters 20th bday AEBL Stainless Gyoto Stainless bolsters Green dyed Mammoth with hidden pins

Turquoise would've worked as well

Thought I'd better put my money where my mouth is. Here's an example of African Blackwood and Cocobolo with the Tru-oil/ArmourAll finish. Both woods are very oily and dense. No buffing, 20'ish coats, just hand rubbed. It takes 15 coats, 000 steel wool, hand wipe, and at that point you can see...

Just finished this one up Alabama Damascus Small Drop Point Cocobolo Bolsters Faux Ivory accents African Blackwood Handle Custom Mosaic Pins

there you go, good name - Sharkbite

I've heard Kryptonite is the key.....

AEBL is fine, just keep in mind that if you mix you don't get the price break. 19 is at the price break, 20 gets you the $5/blade. Don't forget to include the cost of shipping/handling both ways in your expense figures. This is a "new thing" that they started last summer. It makes sense, as...

I use Paul Bos and they are quite good. They do the heat treat/cryo and temper. You can request different hardness or just leave it to Paul (Farner). Their pricing is such that sending them 20 blades at a time is the best deal. I don't think they have any limits on steel types. I've sent them...

Agreed with all above. Get on youtube and watch the how to's. Then look at the finished products of the different makers for what a properly shaped handle looks like, blade bevels, and how "tight" all the pieces need to fit together and be uniform. A good maker will assemble, disassemble, sand...

Scroll up a few posts and you'll see the process that I follow. The biggest difference is the speed at which it dries. Just using tru-oil is a slow drying process. With normal use of tru-oil if you don't wait until it has fully dried or if you put on too thick of a coat it will get gummy and...

Well you "mix" it on the handle. I put a few drops of armor all on both sides of the handle, just enough to get it wet. Then using a T-shirt I dip a finger tip into the tru-oil and then rub that on the handle. It will turn a white'ish color once mixed. Then I generally rub that in a single...

I use a tru-oil/armour-all finish. Each coat dries in about 15 mins and I generally do about 20 coats. It's a finish that was adapted from gunstocks (Woodstock's elixir). It gives a nice shiney and hard finish.

Thank you!!!

Yanagi-ba 1095, stainless bolsters, black and stainless accents, blue mammoth molar

Finished this one up today - Yanagi-ba (Fish/Sushi Knife). This one is mine! 1095 62 rc Hollow (left) and Flat (right) grind - right handed knife Stainless bolsters Alternating black and stainless accents Stabilized/Dyed Wooly Mammoth molar 20 coats of Tru-oil/ArmorAll 15.25" OAL 10" Blade