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Did some more tuning on the hrc tester. The dial lever needed adjustment and now its pretty much dead on to the 63.6 test block and several blades from Bos HT. Shortened the handle on the S90V blade and did the sheaths for that one, the burlap handle one and the 80crv2 blade.

Cleaned the top of the column and bottom of the anvil where I found some grease and adjusted the dashpot ao the weights fall in 4-5 seconds instead of the 3.5 when there was no test sample. Now it tests on or 1 point low, but the low readings are consistent and on a test block that the previous...

Picked up an old Wilson 1R hardness tester for $325 today Complete with manuals, 3 test blocks, ball and diamond brale penetrator and the 150kg weights!! It seems to read 2 hrc low consistently, so I may look in to how to adjust that after I do more testing and get consistent with it.

The red backed gators I have had chunks of abrasives come off when I ran then wet. No problems with running the white backed (347 series IIRC?) soaking wet, or the ceramic Gators wet. Norax AO also do not like water and the grit just falls off in clumps, but the Ceramic Norax work fine with water.

4" magnacut, Desert ironwood with mosaics, red g10 liners and natural micarta lanyard tube

Making some templates to have some blades water jet cut. The small one can nest into the larger one, so I am planning to do 10 of the larger in Magnacut, and 10 of the smaller one in Nitro V and maybe 10 in 80CRV2 or 52100. Nitro V and Red AmeraGrip with mosaics: Nitro V and Blue Ameragrip...

Another 4.75" 80CRV2 dagger, this time 1/4" thick with Carbon Fiber, Red G10 and black Ameragrip and a Red/White/Blue Ameragrip Tuna Poker finished up this week! Would have done more on my days off, but ended up getting sick and having to take it somewhat easy.

I would do some metal "legs" from the tang area? Red box would be the same thickness as the tang area; grind the back of the tang flat to butt up against the metal bar, or better yet, grind the metal bar fit completely around the tang of the blade. Blue box would be some steel legs that could...

It was a pain, especially because of the little pieces! Very tedious and time consuming! I have my way of doing Wa handles from larger blocks, so using premade/preshaped pieces from other handles is a pain! The burnt chestnut handles are easy to do since they are often oval or D shape, so...

Finishing up a big rehab order! 3 Stainless Damascus spoons were thinned/lightened from 3.8oz to 2.5oz each and then re etched 3 Burnt Chestnut handle pieces got red spacers, faux ivory ferrules installed 2 Ho/Buffalo Horn handles got buffalo horn butt caps installed after owner cut the handles...

Shipped these 4 out earlier this week! 8" fillet knives are in Magnacut steel and feature AmeraGrip handles in Cool Grey and Blue. The matching Tuna Pokers (tuna drop blood knives) are in chisel ground Nitro V with matching handles and black G10 guard and frame.

Ah, gotcha! Figured it would save lots of work...lol!

Edwards, grinds look really nice!! Do yourself a favor...get a radius platen!! You can do the shallow hollow grinds with them a lot easier than how you are doing them now without having to buy a large diameter contact wheel! I have a 36 Radius platen from AmeriBrade, they have a 24" one as...

Made this little guy. Its one of my tuna bleeder blades, but I did a stubby full tang handle on it instead of a hidden tang. Its a chisel ground nitro V blade designed for bleeding tuna out by piercing the lateral blood line just under the pectoral fin. Males a cute little utility blade too...

I am going to try that out! I use my electro etcher to etch jimping into the spine, never thought to use a towel for blade texture!

I gotta try that towel trick now for etching!