Search results

Psssst... What kind of steel? Handle material? Pattern on steel? Inquiring minds wanna know!

Haven't put any up here in awhile. Small Hunter - ABS Damascus, Brass bolsters, Flame Cocobolo, custom pins

Very nice, I wish I could do mammoth in california. Museum Fit - I can see that the scales/liners are slightly higher than the tang. Is that what that means?

Yes, it appears to be resolved.

Just an fyi but texasknife.com's web server has been compromised. If you go there, the site will load normally at first and then will start to "shake" back and forth. It will then tell you that you need to update your browser. The update that it downloads to your computer is a trojan.

remember, you can use your laser to put your mark on your sheaths!

I would just weld (mig, stick, etc.) whatever length you need onto the existing tang then grind it flat. No need to worry about heat treat in the handle area. Looks to be far enough behind the blade that the welding temp won't affect the blade. Then thread the backend or maybe what you weld on...

Thanks! it does become a "process" so you can keep track of where you are with each blade - what's done/not done, what needs fixed, etc. These large batches can be tiresome for sure.

Batch of 11 finished up, only 4 more to go! Holy moly, seeing this same pattern in my sleep! NitroV Brass Bolsters Camel bone and stainless accents Ironwood handles

I guess it would depend on where the "stuff" is bound together? Not sure if drilling it wider would make it fall apart.

the wheel looks like it has the same "consistency" as the different types of scotchbrite belts

I have a Moen and it's a great jig but definitely a little pricey and another from belnap knives.

I use a jig, mainly for speed and accuracy. There are times I have to do a little freehanding to get something to look a certain way. If you have to grind a batch of knives it's definitely easier.

When you run the "frame", the laser fires and draws a square around the area where the image will be etched. For MM's it let's you know where the mark will be. You can run it multiple times and move the blade around to suit.

So once you've centered your work in Lightburn, and then I center the laser on the work table. Tell it to move to position 8 and 8. That's on the little "move" tab. You just put in 8 for the X axis and 8 on the Y axis. Next, loosen the laser head and slide it up some. Then I put my blade under...

The top kinda resembles a quilted sapele but not exactly the same shade. Unless its been in the sun. Could also be a quilted maple.

Here you go. You can see what Ken was referring to with the mm/m, etc. I generally have it sanded to the 400 range and I'll color the area with a Sharpee. Not sure that it does much but its easy. There are also options for the layer - Fill, Line, Offset Fill. Since I want my letters all black I...

yeah, i've got the drill doc and the exact same experience! Now I just sharpen by hand on my 2x72 and get better results. Drill doc now sits on the floor getting covered in grinder dust....

Merry Christmas Everyone!

Hopefully this is just "light" prywork, otherwise I tell clients in my knifecare instructions: 2. Do NOT: Throw, chop, pry or dig with your knife. Get a pry bar, shovel, or axe instead. He could potentially pry something that would cause the handle to flex and cause issues with the scales...