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Hey fellas, so I got my Wilton grinder set up and just couldn't wait to start tearing into some steel. After a few horribly sorry attempts at bevels I was ready to explode. I couldn't grind a straight line (top of bevel) to save my life, I couldn't grind even plunge cuts, I ruined the tip of one...

Beautiful!

That is awesome! I'm pretty proud of it so far and very confident that I can make a few minor modifications to make it work better for me. The only things I didn't get with the deal were the 8" contact wheel and the small wheel attachment...I found a source that has reasonably priced (compared...

Wheels are turning......I think I could cut the same platen pattern and configuration for the wheel attachment points, weld the 3/4"(?) rod for the swivel action, but make the platen face in a way that I could adjust it in or out independently (horizontally) Oh well, I have something to work...

I just wonder....perhaps too drastic, but could you drill new mounting holes for the wheels to set maybe 1/2" forward? seems like there could be room. Actually, now that I think about it....a really resourceful guy could build a new platen fixture....Hmmmm......??

Thanks Ty, it took a little elbow grease, but yeah, it cleaned up nice! I bought a small selection of different belts to kinda see what works before I sink a ton of money.

Okay Ed, here it is. Only thing that worries me is the gap (shown with my strait edge) is this too much? It's as far forward as the wheels will go. Pics are goofy...doing this on my phone from my shop.

Makes perfect sense, thanks Gene!

Understood! I appreciate all of the kind help!!!

Perfect! When finish grinding do I need to grind each grit at different angles (taking out scratches from previous grit) as I would hand sanding?

Cool! I'm excited to get this done and start grinding! I should post this on another thread, but since you have been a tremendous help so far, hopefully you don't mind if I ask another few... Just so I got everything straight in my head the process in its simplest form is something like this...

Last question Ed, and then I'll be posting pictures of your modification on my machine....In your pictures you have three sets of holes drilled in your stock platen, but you are only using the top set of two, correct? Is that enough to keep it in place? (I am using 10-24 socket head bolts as you...

Thanks DeMo...I'm going to try this soon. I have some furnace cement I got when I built my propane forge....hopefully mine turns out as well as yours!

Beautiful work! What is your heat treat process? And the vise with the opposing horizontal metal plates? I use a two brick propane forge and quench in canola oil and my blades look like they have been baked in 100 year old motor oil when they are finished....yours are so clean!!

Wow! Very cool!!! Sorry if this is a stupid question, but would modeling clay work for this?

Okay, good info. I guess I can use the stick of 1095 I got today to practice my grinding. (Just picked up an old Wilton Square Wheel, but working on modifying the platen before I break it in)

Thanks Ty, yeah USA Knifemaker is out of stock on 1084 and 1080. Its cool though....I'll put myself on the waiting list......I have a half dozen blades cut out of 01 already to keep me busy for a little while. Too bad, I just got a stick of 1095 in the mail today to try. Why did you think the...

Cool, thanks....I'll start looking around for it.

So, Is this before or after the tempering cycles? Would it work on a scaled up blade that has already been tempered?

Great Information Ted....I appreciate it!