Search results

I set the edge with a used 36g, then start bevels and do 60, 120, 220, HT, then back to 120, 220, A100, A65, A45 and finish with A30 if I'm leaving a machine finish. Hand sanding will depend on if I'm shooting for hamon or not.

Does this set-up also reduce dust from grinding? That would be a nice bonus.

First knife completed after my hand injury and second one using AEB-L. Took me awhile to get my grinding groove back. Think I’m gonna really like this steel.

I’m getting the impression no one does the sides to help with plunges. Maybe I need to reevaluate. Thanks for the replies.

I'm getting ready to replace my glass platen for the first time. I think I have an idea of how I want to approach removing the old one (very carefully, using a torch) and want to make sure I've done any shaping of the new one before I start that process. My question is on how much to radius the...

Do you get the giraffe bone already dyed, or do it yourself? I've been playing around with dying giraffe bone and haven't settled on a consistent method yet. It is a really cool material to work with. I love the aged look with all the lines and cracks.

Very cool. That calls for some experimenting. Do you clip the lead you would normally clip to your etching pad to the towel? I assume it would be done prior to grinding bevels.

2-4 seems to be the sweet spot for me, depending on size. I like to heat treat in batches. After that, if I want to concentrate on just one at a time, I can.

Not something that happened in my shop, this one happened at work. Always wear your PPE folks. Working with a cut off wheel at work and it kicked back into me. Should have been wearing gloves… 18 stitches, no tendon damage, but it will keep me out of the shop for awhile. Stay vigilant. We...

Brodbeck has an integral bolstering and fullering attachment for $350. I'm not sure if their arms are compatible with KMG or not.

As little as I have to. Just enough so the epoxy soaks into the fabric and saturates it. It should be runny, not thick.

I use acetone to thin it enough so it soaks into the fibers.

These are with stingray. Veg tanned leather would work the same. You could probably contour for a palm swell with layers of leather too if desired. The real trick is how to terminate the wrap. For these, I left the large hole exposed for the final part. The epoxy helps here too. I'm sure there...

I've used regular leather and stingray leather underneath paracord, attached with contact cement. I also did it like Taz showed, by removing the inner cordage and actually ironing the paracord flat- that made it easier to get a crisp twist that was uniform. I also give it a thinned down coating...

Thanks Ken. I've been using an older post from Devin Thomas and your synopsis of it as my starting point. So far working out well.

I'm just starting to work with AEB-L. Yesterday I ran test coupons to dial in my temps. I'm getting 62 hrc with just freezer cryo right now. I may move up to dry ice and see how much more I can get out of it. My question today is when do most folks remove the blade from the foil packet? After...

This was a commission piece. Customer asked for something with an “elven” design. Blade is 10” of W-2 steel. Handle is figured walnut with bronze guard and spacer. Sheath is tooled leather with a sharkskin frog.

Working on a sheath today. A new design for me - using a stud and frog to attach to the belt. First time working with shark leather too. I love the texture of it. Just need to sort out a few last bits on how I’m going to put it all together.

Was thinking the same thing.