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☝️That’s me

Has anyone ever done or tried to do a knife with integral bolsters, without forging? My shoulders just aren’t up to the task, but I really like that style knife.

A question about carving knives, wood carving knives, or whittling knives as some would say. Does anyone have a recommendation for the best steel to use? I have never carved anything, so I have no point of reference on what the best qualities in the steel would be. Thanks in advance.

AEB-L is a great steel. I’ve found it works well for smallish knives up to 4-5” blade length. It holds a very nice edge and is easily sharpened to more than serviceable levels. I can’t say definitively that cryo makes a huge difference but I do it anyway.

I’m going to show my ignorance here, but what would one hope to achieve with a platen covered in softer material?

Gene Kimmi hooked me up with some very nice pieces. Thank you for the source however, I’m sure it will come in handy.

What is everyone using for small parts holding? Like guards, spacers, pommels, etc. for filing or sanding? I’m interested in home made stuff and/or purchased. I just need something to hold onto those small parts.

I did the combat thing for a minute, then they added minimum order quantities, tacked on ridiculous shipping fees and it took way to long in my opinion. Plus I very rarely got my correct order. I buy direct from tru-grit now and have never had even problem one. I love how they spell out in the...

I got one too. For a second I thought maybe I won something. But I figured it out pretty quick.

I know nothing of the Mora knifes, but I just got a couple carving knives in to recreate, and the blades were nothing more than pressed into a drilled hole. No glue, no pins, not even a properly prepared hole. Just drilled and then pressed in.

These are just a couple of the maybe 30 or so that I got. We have a local saw mill guy that I pop in on occasionally. For $50 I got 2 really nice Russian Olive pieces, and a big Box Elder burl. I think I did ok. These pieces are stabilized, sanded to 600, and then buffed. No oil or finish.

Anyone ever use Russian Olive (burl)? Got my hands on some and from what I can tell it’s good stuff.

Who knew that in order to makes knives you would need to be a metallurgist and a botanist both? Just kidding. My question is regarding heart wood and sap wood. What’s the difference and what does that mean to me when I’m putting it on a knife? Thanks.

I’m looking to trade for 2 blocks of Bois D’arc, I need for an upcoming project. To trade I have some very nice Turkish walnut, as well as several others. Please PM me with offers. thanks

I’m building a new grinder, and the plan is to go with a 3hp (3650) motor, with VFD. What size drive wheel would y’all recommend? Thanks.

Correct me if I’m wrong but if I’m picking up what John is putting down, using a piece of threaded rod in lieu of pins would actually be counter productive. Reason being a screw of equal diameter will provide less resistance to shear than a solid pin. That being the case your trading more “pull...

You will most likely not regret it. I feel like the addition of this belt has upped my game. Both from a finishing stand point and because it will make any prior scratches visible, so I’ve upped my grinding game to match.

Even the ones with grit? I ran into several references for putting compound on the cork belt with no grit, but nothing about the ones with grit.

I kinda feel that way... hahaha! But what can I say, that’s the good stuff!

Update- I got my new belt broken in and used it for the first time today. I have got to say that I was impressed. With the comments on the thread coupled with some independent research, I was able to get the initial grit knocked down with a piece of scrap steel and take it from there. The...