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Count me in (again) too!

I do flat and convex grinds, but I too am limited in my equipment. I do as much as I can before HT. So, I'll usually go to 320 or so by hand.

Maybe I can finally give up using a chunk of 2x4 and deck screws. . .

On gunstocks I used B-C gun stock wax. A wax with carnauba usually provides a good protective finish.

Not sure which part you're confused about, but I'll try to break it down. When sanding wood (or metal, for that matter), you'll sand with sandpaper starting with coarser grits and progressing to finer grits. Sandpaper will be marked as 100, 220, 320, 400, 600, 800 grit, etc. Coarser grit...

You may also want to try burnishing with a coarse cloth. Sand to 400 grit, then buff with 0000 steel wool. Then, take some coarse cloth--old jeans would do--and hand rub the wood with the denim until you can feel the wood get warm. Then apply your finish. I've seen posts by other makers that...

There are quite a few newer makers creating knives for the user crowd, and doing quite well at it. Your last statement brings up a good point. It's not just a matter of knowing your place in the market, but knowing which market you intend to try to sell in. Basic users, high end users...

Blind Horse Knives is pretty much doing just that--small necker sized knives, basic designs and grinds, machine finish, recycled steel (some sort of concrete saw, I believe), for around $65. Finding your "place in the market" is really good advice. It's easy to think of terms of...

Hey guys, I just found out my neighbor, who's 81, has decided to sell his anvil. It's been in his wife's family for 3 generations, and his boys aren't interested in it. It has a cast body with a hardened face plate on top. The name Fulton is cast into the side in large block letters...

In addition to acetone, UV light will break down the plastic plates over time.

You should check out the Smoking Meat Forums. Lots of good discussion over there, and lots of recipes. We've done pulled pork, brisket, ribs, potatoes, and baked beans so far. I still haven't tried chicken.

Knife Dogs IS the best--friendly people, great makers, and great knives!

I posted a wanted ad on craigslist. Got a response a day later from a steel yard that was sitting on tubing they couldn't sell because the economy was so bad. They even cut it to the lengths I needed.

I lost a drop point hunter I made for myself. I'm in Ohio and it's somewhere in Kansas. I'm pretty sure it's lying next to a barbed wire fence I crossed outside Burlington.

I usually cut the pelvis with a saw, though I've batoned one through with a Buck 110 before. I can go either way with cutting the ribs. I think it's easier in the field to remove the trachea/lungs/heart, but makes it more difficult to skin out the chest and shoulders later.

Rock, I have 2 different steels that I use, along with a ceramic rod. I don't know the name brands, and they are older ones that I picked up at flea markets over the years for 50 cents or so. The first is a little coarser, the second a little finer. I take a couple of swipes on the coarse...

Mahogany is used by a lot of model makers/pattern shops because it has a fine grain and is very stable--very little movement due to changes in heat, moisture, etc.

Ed, I seem to remember Terry Primos doing something like this in the past with a piece of micarta on his 1/4 sheet sander, and if I remember correctly he radiused the corners of the micarta to get into the plunge. Nathan

Old Westinghouse "micarta" (or whatever) goes for high bucks on Ebay (I've seen a pair of scales go for over $100 before). Likely the seller caught on and was hoping that someone would buy their G10 laminate in the hopes of getting some original aged Westinghouse laminate.

Welcome back to the grinder, Big D! Nice work!