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To each their own. If someone wants to limit themselves to full tang, that's OK. If hidden tangs were all that bad, they wouldn't be predicting $20,000 bids on the Scagels coming up for auction next month. What the heck did Scagel know, or Bill Moran for that matter? Heck, they were doing it...

Then there are the framed handles to complicate matters. . . :)

I suppose you could include a mortised tang to that list. A little different in that it could be considered a hybrid between the full tang and hidden tang in that it is a hidden tang with a handle made up of 2 slabs.

It all depends on what kind of feel you want in your knife. I've held and used knives that felt like paperweights, and knives that were light and wispy in the hand. Light and wispy takes a little more skill to achieve, not just in finishing, but in getting the heat treat just right so that the...

Lots of knives have been made with perforated tangs to lighten the load, as an alternative to tapering the tangs.

I don't necessarily agree with that at all. That's like saying a solid rod of steel is inherently stronger than a tube of steel of the same diameter. But, that's not so.

You have to make sure that you're not comparing apples to oranges here. When someone generalizes that full tangs are stronger than hidden tangs, on what do they base that statement? I can see a PRODUCTION full tang being stronger than hidden tang. Look how short the hidden tangs are on Moras...

Dang it Marvin. I won't be back in Texas until August. Flyin' in to Ft. Worth, then heading west to a conference.

Rob, I don't know how the wheels are designed, but I know that the blade guides are not adjustable. You can probably do a 5 inch curve, but from what I've observed so far it slows the cutting down compared to a straight cut. Nathan

WI might wear away, but it wore away slower than anything else available at the time they were in use.

Short answer--no, it does not cut curves well. I've tried, and if you try to force a curve then it binds up the blade. You have to remember, it is what it is: A $79 bandsaw (less with coupon). It won't cut fast, and it won't cut tight curves. It's no where near a substitute for a higher...

Go for it! One thing I might change on mine is the height of the plywood in the back. I make mostly hunters/EDC's like the ones in the photo above. If you make long knives there is a chance that the height of the plywood on the left of the saw could interfere with your barstock. Not a big...

You still have to take the saw down off the stand to change the blade. But, it's as simple as removing the handle bolts. Also, this method doesn't make any permanent modifications to the saw itself like I've seen on other posts around the web.

If you use one, heat them up slowly. If you try to get up to temp quickly, they can crack because of the difference in temperature between the chamber and the outside of the brick. Yes, you can wire them together, but that is just a temporary fix. I bought a couple when I first started, and...

Love or hate Harbor Freight, a lot of us that are hobby makers turn to them for inexpensive tools when operating a shop on a tight budget, especially if you are just starting out. I've tried a variety of ways of cutting out knife blanks from bar stock. Angle grinder, drilling holes, etc. I...

Before he closed up the shop, Troy Koval told me the same thing--that it has a tendency to chip, and advised that you grind it extremely slow. Same for drilling. He said it was popular for small folders.

Do you mean that it is bending sideways (left or right of the side of the blade)? How thick is your stock? Is it possible that as you hammer the blade is not entirely flat against your anvil (in other words, you might be holding the back of the blade off the face, and hitting the middle...

I think what these guys are leaving out is that by taking the tang to the contact wheel first, you hollow out the center of your full tang. This leaves just the outer part of the tang higher than the center, reducing the amount of surface area to be ground away when you take the tang to the...

There is a lot more to a handle than just its shape. You have to think about how the knife as a whole is intended to be used, then design your handle in relationship to the point and the edge of the knife. Do you want the point centered with the handle? Do you want the cutting edge in line...

Fred, Thanks for offering up another jig and blades! Could I have 353 please? Nathan