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Finally got the tusk cut, guard made and a lot more finishing to do

I got all my Micarta from Sheffield Knife Supply in Florida, but I believe there were going out of business last I heard.

My number has not changed you must have hit the wrong button.

No nickel, just 52100 and 416SS

52100 core with 416 SS on the sides Turkish Walnut handle ( scraps from a custom gun maker)

A BIG ....... Walrus

4 bar twist from 1080 and 15N20 Just got it heat treated and etched, now the fun starts guard and handle. Got this tusk that has been around for a long time,think I will use it.

Great looking knife and axe Raymond. Have a good time at the show. Cal

Looks good Raymond !

1080/15N20 twisted crushed W's , stainless bolster , G10 handle

Ben , might I suggest that you get some high temp silicon rubber to protect the cylinder rod. When the cylinder is mounted below the work, scale will get trapped in the rod gland and eventually gouge up the cylinder rod.

Looking good Ray!!!!!! What ever happened to that old glove and burlap you had in all your knife pictures ?

Ames wants $105.00 for this test block, but it is a bit more accurate than what you are describing from McMaster. I would say that + or - 5 is not much of a calibration block. None of this stuff is cheap. I have a portable Ames tester and the plastic dial face crystal has a crack, I think they...

I started with 29 layers of 1/8 (15) 1080 and (14)15N20 alternating. Then I did a 4 stack,4 stack and a 3 stack, forged the last billet into a 1 1/2 inch square piece, cut it in 3 and forged it from a vertical piece into a horizontal piece and rolled it out that is what gave me the knife with...

Just finished these up and that is it for this year. Rolled and stretched crushed W's with a Masur Birch handle Crushed W's, then pool and eyed

Raymond send me an email your old address does not work

Looks good. When you going to use that Musk Ox horn I gave you ? Send me an email your old address does not work.

Just got these finished up 52100/416SS, one with yellow/black G10 and the other in Iron Wood.

Once again it would depend on thick the core is. If you don't have a press I would take something like a 1 inch round bar,grind a flat on one side for the hammer to hit, place it on the hot strip (forging temp) and see if you can distort the core. Do this on both sides, then flatten the bar out...

When I forged this piece I purposely messed with it to offset and disrupt the center section so that when I ground it you would see the distortion pattern. If you look down the piece of steel you have and if the center section is a nice straight line then I would guess that you are going to get...