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Thanks for the reply, As far as exact tolerances I will need to learn but I would guess positional plus minus .0005" and size minus 0 plus .001". I build my knives with threaded hardened barrels that run through both scales and the backspacer. They are precision machined and fit tight into a...

Thanks for the reply, I am fully prepared to break some endmills, in fact I am pretty good at that already..., I have a copy of g wizard coming with the mill so I plan to use it as much as possible. When you say you don't know anyone drilling with carbide do you mean without spotting first or...

OK first question(s) What is the smallest endmill I can use to cut my vertical lockbar cut? My titanium is .160". I have found some .040" end mills with a DOC long enough to accommodate this, but is that too thin to be reliable. I would like to keep this dimension as small as possible to best...

I have been making framelocks for a little while using a manual benchtop mill. This has been great to learn on and I don't regret starting that way. That being said I have quickly learned that it isn't overly efficient. So much of my time is eaten up with manual machining setups that I dont have...

That sounds like a great idea.

Thanks for the reply, It sounds like laser may not be the best idea. My waterjet guy does use dynamic control on the outside profile and it is pretty straight but he says he cant use it on the slot without making it much wider. I guess he just runs a single pass to get a .035"ish slot. I have...

To save some time and headache I have my parts waterjet cut. The waterjet is not accurate enough to spot holes on both sides of my scales so I only spot a few holes on either side and manually transfer the rest. It is also not accurate enough to cut my lockbars. Specifically the Kerf is too...

I have really been enjoying seeing everyone's projects in this thread. Here are 2 framelocks I made as a matching set.

I have a tutorial with templates here: https://bladeforums.com/threads/slipjoint-tutorials-and-advice.1623369/

I am starting to grind my current batch or framelocks.

Working on my first inlayed handle frames. These have integral bolsters. The inlay is black canvas micarta.

Amazing. I would feel bad using a hammer that nice.

I agree. GRINDER 100%. If the tx is too expensive the regular kmg is great.

I use 10 degrees. I tried 8 and i was able to push the lockbar to 100%. It was solid but that bothered me alot. I checked alot of my framelocks and found they were about 10 degrees (hinderer, crk, spyderco). At 10 degrees my lockbar can't be pushed over and still is secure when spine whacked...

Awesome thread. Thanks for the info.

I tried an integral bolster. It is slow to mill the relief but I'm happy with the result so far.

https://bladeforums.com/threads/slipjoint-tutorials-and-advice.1623369/ Here it is. I am in the process of creating a pdf but for now all the info is here. If you ever have any questions let me know. It has cad files and layouts for making the parts. Every step I could think of is covered...

I added a fixture plate to my mill and rearranged everything to fit. I have yet to try it out.

I have a tutorial aimed at beginners if you're interested.

Looks awesome man