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Finally finished it. Throat and Chape/drag are all 20ga sterling silver. Leather is 6/7oz vege tan, blacked with vinegaroon, and sewn with 6 cord linen thread. This scabbard was fitted to the sword shown made by Kyle Willyard and Jared Secrest. The drag/chape is of two pieces joined by silver...

That recipe is the one I use with good results on 1095 fire strikers. I don't know about the soap and such, but since using brine over water, I have not yet cracked a striker. Could happen though.

A warm brine solution is less violent than water, much more even cooling, and gives a little more hardening depth and lessens the chance of cracking. Somewhat.

01, with an ideal HT, will beat 1084, but as a good all around using blade, 1084 can be a very excellent choice of steel. Especially if you use the type with a little vanadium in it.

Not bad overall. A little off here and there, but does pretty good getting the basics across.

Thanks for the info. A good feature I suppose, but I don't think worth doing a retro fit.

During the 18th c., and earlier, the French forge welded their bolsters to the bades, giving the appearance of being integral. Some of their blades were wrought iron with a forge welded higher carbon cutting edge. The English forge welded tangs, both full and narrow, and bolstered to some of...

I only recently heard they offered safety switches, so I must assume that I don't have one. What exactly does it do?

I have the Ramp Master II, 22.5 and love it. The only problem I've had is one of the corner coil retaining pins broke. It is my understanding they are using a different method now. I have never regretted buying it, except I wish I bought an even deeper one to do short swords. Do as you wish, but...

If the 01 blade was of precision ground stock, was made by stock removal, and never taken beyond 1475°, grain refinement should not be necessary. It has already been done. According to Robert Cella, " Mete' ". Scrap that I have tested concur with this.

Yes, but if it is soft, you can cold straighten, and you also have between 5 and 8 or so minutes to hand straighten when it comes out of quench if warped. If that fails, you can go ahead and temper one cycle or even more, then C clamp it a little over straight to a bar of thick steel, or angle...

Guy on another forum, Ed Tipton, uses a Sawzall. He grinds away the set in the teeth and removes the point. Then attaches a strip of sand paper to the blade with rubber bands or duck tape. He claims he is able to get into tight areas with it very easily. I dunno, may be worth a try.

You should be able to straighten and try again, but first you need to do something with your oven so that it works this time.

You will regret not getting a 6X48 sander. It will pay off in the long run. And get one with a cast iron deck. Not the flimsy sheet metal deck. Mine was a used Craftsman, and probably nearing 50 years old now. I did have to replace bearings, but an entire knife can be made on that type of sander...

Not to be a smart ass, but I think I would ask Mr. Dunn. I assume you are paying for this, but even if not, I'd still ask him. After all, it's his class and only someone who has taken it before could tell you anything, and he may have changed something since then.

Probably not for the steel if it is protected well, but yes, that is a long time.

All of the above, and then some. Super fine for a first, and even better than many more experienced.

Very most excellent!!!!! You have a great future in knife making. Great workmanship, and a great save for a problem. I find that totally incredible for a beginner. That is better work than many pro's I've seen. Go for the gold man, it's there waiting for you.

Just be as gentle as you can. Deer bone is brittle. Let them dry for a couple of months before using. They will shrink slightly. Fill the marrow channel with a good strong epoxy, or better yet epoxy a wood core in it. If you don't do one of those, and just pin it, it won't last under use. Wood...

I've cold hammered probably near a hundred to straight on a vise anvil. You must reheat to stress relieve, and they will likely warp again some in the hardening quench, but there are ways to straighten after hardening and tempering. Although cold hammering cannot be recommended as being good for...