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Yes, that can be done, but you will find grinding without over heating to be very slow going. You will find that any file shaping on it will be near impossible. You will find that Nicholson files make excellent blades, but better to spheroidize anneal it and reheat treat after shaping, if you...

Try Moscow Hide & Fur. They have bone, antler, and other animal parts.

I agree with Scott. 1080/84 with a good HT is as good or better than 1095 with a poor HT. Either of these steels Scott mentioned are almost fool proof to HT well.

(quote) If you are using vegetable oil on 1095, you might look into that as the problem. 1095 must have a super fast quench. If you can't do the Parks 50 route or similiar (Dt48), brine is about your best bet. Or brine for three seconds and then into oil. And with 1095 remember that if your...

If you didn't notice, there was some give in that vise mounting. Still interesting, but I would agree with J Doyle overall.

Thank you. It was a very time consuming project, and sapped my desire to repeat it. At least for now. Maybe one day I might do another.

Try Renaissance Wax. A little pricy, but excellent long lasting wax. Used by many museums.

Here's a Musso I made 7 or 8 years ago. As exact to the blueprint as I could get.

Thankyou for bringing that to light. You are probably correct in your assumption, and it makes more sense in celcius. 392°F = 200° C., 356°F = 180° C.

I always get very suspicious of the presence of BS when I see austenitizing or tempering temperatures listed in plus or minus of round numbers, as if one or two degrees either way could make a measurable difference. Can you believe that a 392°, or a 356° temper can measured and shown to be...

ACE hardware stores usually have a good selection the lamp parts, and you go on the internet and find even more choices. I found a site that even has horse head finials similar to the English Bowies of the 19th c.

The latter will give you a stronger blade.

So Kevin, what you're saying, more or less, is that sometimes, under some situations, ignorance not only can be bliss, but also productive though in an incomprehensive manner. I get that. A good explanation.

Concerning the simpler carbon steels, why is it that so many persist in this practice, and continue to recommend it to be the critical temperature at which a blade should be quenched in the hardening process? Non-magnetic happens at 1414° in all steels, and is only the second phase of fully...

If you want a stronger blade, you have to use thicker steel with thicker bevels.

I think you will just have to try it and see how well it works for your needs. The chart I saw said to temper at 400° minimum and that would give about a 55 Rc hardness with decent toughness. Your heat for hardening temp with 4140 should be at least 2 or 3 shades of red above non-magnetic...

I agree with Ed about the 5160, but cast 4140 tomahawk/axe heads hold up surprising well in general use. Can't see it as a good knife steel though.

Aside from being nasty, toxic, and dangerous, I would rate it too slow for that steel. Canola oil would eliminate all of that, and would be the only really viable second to the Parks #50, if as Stuart said, in a pinch.

I do it like Lawrence said. Pretty fast and easy. I also flatten the blade tangs on the 6x48 sander.

In my opinion, Stuart nailed it. If I was doing the HT, I would not change anything he suggested. I have no hands on experience with W2, but everything he said correlates to that make up of steel. You are basically using the same HT as you would with 1095, and in doing so, I would expect a...