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I do 2 one hour tempers, quenching in water each temper. 01 steel. For a definitive answer, you will need to test the two methods and see if you can find a difference, or advantage of one over the other. The now common double temper is intended to help reduce any RA, but as I understand it...

No "beef" at all. Just saying that you're dealing with a steel that you are in no way equipped to handle, and working with misinformation as to what is required to succeed in your quest. Nothing personal involved, just facts that you seem to want to believe can some how be skirted around and...

52100 really requires a controlled soak at quench heat, 1475°, because of it being a pretty highly alloyed steel. Without temp control, you are handicapped from the start. A simple hypoeutectic steel would serve you much better with the apparent limited equipment you seem to have. Without temp...

You do realize my last post was sarcasm. Right?

Well, that explains it all. :001_rolleyes:

A common freezer is not cold enough to have any effect on the steel. For any beneficial changes the temp needs to be at or below -100°F, and even then does little to nothing with carbon steels. You did not give any details, so we do not know exactly what you mean in the hardening process, but...

Acraglas gel has nylon in it, which allows a slight give under impact. A good thing in some cases, but I would not use it in a knife grip. I have never understood why it was intended for glass bedding rifle actions, when maximum rigidity is one of the requirements for consistent accuracy. The...

The gel does not get as hard or as strong as straight Acraglas.

Ed, would you explain how it is that spheroidized annealed PG 01 is so soft that one can carve slivers from it with a pocket knife, and how it is that it drills and files like butter if it is not fully annealed, and how is it precision ground if not fully annealed? Spheroidized annealing is the...

Here we go again with the non-magnetic temp for quench heat. This fallacy just won't die. You have to go a shade or so of red above non-magnetic to get a good solution in the steel. Quench in warmed canola oil. Brine if you're brave. 1 or 2 gallons depending on blade size.

Yes, boot leather will make a sheath, but it is chrome tanned leather which will promote rust. If that matters to you. Vegetable tanned carving leather does not promote rust, and if oiled will retard rust formation.

500° is a tad high, but should be OK. The temper color will do no harm, but most would consider the blade unfinished.

You need to contact Evenheat. Mine never goes more above target temp than two or three degrees.

I only did the leather work, using the original scabbard mounts. The original leather was rotted and torn. The frog tube was made from 4/5 0z vege-tan. The belt loop base for the tube was from 7/8oz vege-tan. I made the security strap buckle above the throat locket from 1/16" sheet brass with a...

They look very nice to me. Why did you choose 1095 as your steel? Do you intend to send them out for HT?

Only if forged. Why would being heavily spheroidized require normalizing before hardening? PG 01 comes ready to harden and temper. After grinding, it should be stress relieved, but mainly to help prevent warp. Spheroidizing has nothing to do with grain size, so why would you cycle it? All the...

" Another way is to solder/braze a piece of threaded rod to the tang. If you use that method be sure you make the joint at least 45 degrees to increase the surface area. A 90 degree joint is easy to break but the 45 degree joint works well if soldered properly. " I prefer a pinned lap joint...

I am just guessing, but I would think, considering the chemical make of the two different steels, it would need to be treated as 1095 with at least a 10 minute soak. Soak at 1475° and quench in fast oil.

OK, just my opinion, but with the shape of your spring leaf, most all the load is in that thin waist. I was taught to start thick and taper all sides to the tip. This better spreads the load along the length of the spring leaf. Equal sided leaf, or uniformly round would be better than a leaf...

You might try Permalyn Sealer. It is a sealer and a tough finish used on gun stocks