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I can give you one good tip to make a tight fit. Go about 1/16" above the shoulder level, and taper the tang. Then you only have that 1/16" to make the guard fit really tight. I do squared slots roughly close fitted to the radial shoulders. The leather washer will last a long time, unless...

Wahkon Bay cold brown, or Laural Mt cold brown. I use the Wahkon Bay. It seems slightly less harsh and aggressive. No heating to apply for brown, but to darken to black the steel needs to be boiled. To give an antique look, just sand back to your liking, leaving the rust in the areas it would...

My first real piece of work that I have done in 14 months. Had some health and vision problems, but am getting better now. The knife is a representation of an 18th c. "broken Sword"knife, or re-puposed sword. The knife was made by Kyle Willyard, Old Dominion Forge. I made the sheath with a...

Here's mine. 1971. 7 1/2" blade made from file. The grip was made from Sambar stag purchased from Bo Randall.

In most cases, the time it takes to come up to temps. If a small oven, it may do well enough, but if a large oven, you would likely do better with 220v.

Cliff, I never thought about it much, but I would call the difference as a full width ricasso, against a partial width ricasso, or maybe a stepped ricasso.

It helps to taper the tang slightly to within 1/32" to 1/16" of the shoulders, depending on the thickness of the guard. Then you have less to have to be precise with in the guard slot. When the fit is about .010 to it's final seat, you can usually drive it on down with a hammer, using a drilled...

There is no right or wrong answer, but a blade of that size would likely be for skinning or other semi-delicate/precision cutting, rather than for chopping. You could use from 3/32" to 1/4" stock. Much would depend on your grind. Given a choice, I would go with a flat grind using 3/32" to 1/8"...

Finished up yesterday. Leather is 6/7 oz vege tan, sewn with linen thread, and dyed with vinegaroon. Mounts are sterling silver, hand made by me, and glued in place. The throat body is 20 ga silver and the drag/toe is 22 ga. The length of the scabbard is 23".The sword will be completed later by...

Just finished an all sterling silver throat for a sword scabbard I am making. All silver with exception of a brass pin inside the button shaft. Inspired by an original 18th c. English scabbard. Throat body is from 20 ga. sheet, butt joined in the back by Silvaloy 355 silver braze. The top plate...

Original hunting swords are almost always hidden tang. However, you might consider a guard fitted from the blade side to shoulders on the full tang. It would need to be pinned or soldered, or both for secure strength.

1/16" would be plenty thick for an inch and a half blade. Heat treating as you described will give you a usable blade. You will not get the maximum benefits that 01 offers, but I doubt you would notice the difference for what it is intended to be used for. However, I would suggest just a...

Gentlemen, nothing personal what so ever. Beauty is in the eye of the beholder. It is hard to argue art, but that is about the ugliest treatment I've ever seen on a knife grip in 45 years of knifemaking. That is just my humble opinion. Again, I mean no personal slur. If you actually like that...

This one is a William Parker pattern English scalper. Parker was registered as a cutler in Sheffield England in 1761, and supplied some of the scalper type trade knives to the colonies. I made this one with a 7" blade of 01 steel, tapered in both directions from the junction of the stained...

Also beware when using. When they say contact, they mean contact. There is no changing things once the two pieces of leather touch each other. If you try to part the two, very often the leather gives before the glue gives.

I would not use brine, and canola oil, while sufficient for 1084, is not quite the equal of Parks #50. I gave my opinion. You gave yours. Aldo's 1084 is not the old typical 1084, but all the 10xx steels benefit more from a fast quench. I would not hesitate to use canola oil, but would prefer to...

I agree with Stuart with all, except 1095 should not be taken over 1475° for the quench process, as higher heat is detrimental to the extra carbides that give hypereutectic steels their advantage, and you might cause unnecessary grain growth. There is no oil that will completely beat the...

So Ed, for a chopper type blade, you are shooting for an as quenched hardness of 56/58 Rc, or is that what you would temper to?

Welcome to life, but don't take it too serious. It ain't a permanent condition.

As said, no harm with most common solders. A silver braze might be too much, but not the lower temp silver bearing solders.