Search results

I had to ask. You might be surprised at some things some makers do in HTing. Sounds like you have a good thing going, and your handle work looks very good so far also.

You heat it up, and then just let it cool? No quench?

A wise move. Try Aldo Bruno, the steel baron, for some 1084. It is enhanced by a tiny addition of vanadium. He offers other varieties too, and will give you tips on the HT for them.

You cannot get the best out of 01 when you HT it in a forge. One is better off using a simpler steel that is forge HT friendly rather than spend extra money for a steel you cannot get extra performance from.

I have an Evenheat 22.5 Rampmaster II. 220V. Personally I don't care for the idea of coils on top at all. In a 4.5 space, it seems to me that it would be too easy to bump the coil with the blade both entering or leaving. The Evenheat allows me to cradle my blades in slots cut into a fire brick...

Jake, with basically simple equipment as you have, it may be best for now to just use a simple steel until you are able to, or decide to go to higher tech equipment. 1080, 1084 steel makes fine blades, and are much easier to heat treat. Little to no soaking is required, and with practice, you...

You might want to do some research on heat treating 01 steel, and heat treating steel in general. I am going to assume that you do not have a heat treating oven, or any other way of controlling temperatures much above 500°. 01 requires a more involved process than you are using, if good results...

Carbon black. It is just simple carbon powder. Art supplies, or you can char some wood, then scrape it off.

The L hook will do for both methods of carry, while the button is best used with a leather "frog" attachment on a belt. [/UR [URL=http://s37.photobucket.com/user/wicklrb/media/004640x480_zps19aa306a.jpg.html]

? "LRB, thanks for the follow up info on the throat. This 3/32" pin you mention, that just sticks out of button slightly more than thickness of throat, silver soldered in, then filed smooth with inside of throat? I can see where that would add some support." Exactly, except since you will...

Brownell's Silvaloy 355 is a silver braze that I use to butt join the wrap around throat. It flows at 1250°, and with thin materials as most throats are, it only requires a common propane torch. It is very strong. The locket buttons, or hooks need the silvaloy to attach them to the throat, along...

Once the main body is silver brazed together in the rear center, or soft soldered with a lap joint, you cut out and shape an oversized top plate. Usually 1/16" thick, or a bit less will do well, but you can go more or less. Sand one side with 220/240 grit paper. Dead true the top of your throat...

Yes. I made one with a brass throat, but I don't recall if I have any pics of the sheath. I do have a pic of one I made for a store bought Musso. Someone bent the forward quillon over and I had to slot the throat for the knife to enter. Throats are relatively easy to do. The only real tedious...

Please expound a bit on the "brass ring" on an old sheath. Is this a round ring for a belt attachment, or a collar/throat around the upper sheath?

I am thinking with that short of a distance from the saddle to the locking tab, 1/16" would be plenty. I made one something like that about 25 years ago, and gave it to my son. I believe my spring was thinner than 1/16". Maybe 1/32". I tempered the spring too hard, and it broke within a year...

Brownell's extra wide spring steel. Cold rolled and annealed. Page 404 in my #66 catalog. They also have 1075 stock on page 403.

Brownell's has thin 1095 in various widths.

That star stamp is a top secret. You will have to promise not to tell. I used a Torx screw driver bit. It was just too easy to pass up, and was a near perfect match. I used maple for the grip, deep stained with Fiebings USMC black leather stain. Musso's is not dark from age, but from also being...

Bear in mind. True Wootz steel was a crucible steel, made into ingots, and not made by hammer forging into a layered laminate of two or more different steels.

I would suggest gluing the leather in place, then coat well with spar varnish.