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Every time you change grit in hand sanding, get every scratch out from the previous grit, changing direction 45° to see when to change again. It takes time and patience if you seek perfection.

With only .55 carbon, I doubt if you can get a really high Rc.

What steel is it?

If your straightening temp never exceeds your temper temp, there will be no significant change in hardness.

If you originally tempered at 200 c. and your oven went to 250 c. in your straightening process, yes, you lost a few points in hardness.

Try here to buy individual testing files http://store.flexbar.com/shop/pc/showsearchresults.asp?pageStyle=L&resultCnt=&keyword=hardness+testing+files

It is pretty simple to silver braze a threaded rod to the tang with a lap joint and pin rivet. Then you can tap the butt cap and screw it down. You can also just extend the tang in the same manner, run it through the cap and peen it over.

Buy the largest you can afford. The 22.5 would probably be enough though. Buy a control that can be programed. That makes life easier. I have the Evenheat Rampmaster 2, 22.5 deep. I set my blades edge up in shallow slots, maybe 3/8" or so deep, cut into a standard sized fire brick. This puts the...

I don't think a backer would be needed, but I would certainly advise a stress relief heat cycle before the hardening process.

About once a year I run a batch of thin bladed penny knife friction folders. I use 3/64" x a little over 3" long blades, 01 steel, and grind them before HT. I never have a warp problem with them.

An oven without heat control is no better than a forge for HT. Put it back on ebay and save your money for one that will do the job.

A welders blanket maybe??

As a firefighter/EMT, my partner and I were called to the scene of an interrupted burglary in which both the home owner and the perp had armed themselves with common butchers knives from the kitchen and had fought it out until both were down. Perp in his 60's, owner in his 70's. Perp got the...

How will you shape them? If forging, I would suggest neither, as neither is known for great shock resistance. If choosing between the two, I would say 01, but neither are greatly forge friendly either, and will require a lot of pre-HT steps before hardening. 5160 would be a much better choice...

The brine formula I was given and use is 13 oz salt, Kosher or sea, per gallon of water. Simply one standard 26 oz box of salt into two gallons. I mix it hot, but quench at 100°. Your thin blade will harden all the way through, but I still think warm canola oil might be best. Can you try a piece...

Canola oil, speed wise, is as good as it gets other than Parks #50, for an oil quench. Brine is tops, even over the Parks #50, but you are at a risk of the it cracking. If you want to try brine, lower your critical temp to between 1450°, and 1470°. Brine is less violent than straight water, and...

With the blade in a vise, determine the apex of the warp. Heat that area of the spine to blue or even gray, not allowing the colors to go to the edge. Flex the blade a little beyond straight, hold that position and pour water on it until cooled. That will lock it in straight. You may need to...

According to Stacy Apelt, if the RA cools too slowly towards martensite, some will revert back. If quenched, it is locked. The results are not highly significant at all, I think he mentioned only a one or two percent increase in finished martensite but since no harm is done, why not? As to...

Hey Josh, I cool my Evenheat by opening the door just an inch or so for awhile, then open it on up. I guess I've done this for 5 or 6 years. I also water quench after each temper cycle. That saves a little electricity and helps RA conversion, if there is any. BTW, KC just recently posted that...

Thank you all for your kind words. Kevin, Pete Hamilton kinda guided me through my first knife in 1971. As much as he could anyway, while not neglecting his shop duties.