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Yup. And watching an oven is boring.

Looks like your numbers are real close to where they should be.

Nope. Won't change it at all. During tempering, some retained austenite will convert to martensite. That fresh martensite is untempered and brittle. And while it is distributed in real small doses throughout, it does cause problems n some steels worse than others.

Yes.

To offer an opinion on where you're at with picking steels and deciding processes. I've read everything I can read and watched what I can watch and studied all the graphs I can stand because I want to add what appears to be on the simpler end of steels, AEB-L and A2. I've decided that I will do...

Potential hardness.

It's worth noting that I don't *prefer* foiling carbon steel blades and don't do it as standard practice, but after forging I really didn't have the extra material to grind away and keep the thickness I wanted.

So I just heat treated a knife this evening that I forged the point on. (Maybe I should discuss this one in the "what is forged" thread) Since I needed to normalize it and do a couple grain reduction cycles, I foil wrapped it for the first three heats and then when it was time for final...

I don't really worry about anything but making what I like. I spend most of my fretting time fretting about how good my knife will perform and hold up to its intended task. There is every maker out there from adding a lanyard bead to a factory knife to full custom whatever you can imagine and...

I don't recall where, but I believe I read that carbon migration was significant to the point that it practically equalizes, and in relatively few heats.

Very nice, Tim!

Doing both. I like the contrast on the two tone, and they are just about the easiest fastener imaginable for installing.

That is a forged marlin spike.

A couple new and well received patterns. A bullnose hunter and a mini-muk.

Lots of bushcrafters.

Been a hot minute since I posted any. Here are a few from the second half of 2021. These to the same fella.

I use the stick lube from McMaster Carr. It was $11 for a standard grease tube sized stick. It's somewhat waxy and liquifies with a little heat and solidifies pretty quick when you back off the pressure so it sticks on awhile. Works well on bandsaw blades too. I usually don't lube on thin stock.

*still using the same #11 bit. Not a joke.

Added a tumbler.

I am an admitted sluggard and an avowed machine finisher. I very infrequently hand finish the flats. Properly done, they're different finishes. I think the overly long sanding sessions are derived from the lack of belief that a good finish and crisp lines can be achieved on the grinder, when...