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Since we're talking real survival and the modern bushcraft knife, one point I will reluctantly concede is thicker, or at least appropriately thicker, is better. Never thought that I'd think that because since I started fooling with knives I've been chasing thinner. And thinner is more better...

I had a friend of mine convert my patterns to dxf. I literally used only my phone for my part. I made a master knife blank, and traced that with a single, fine and dark pencil line on a clean crisp page in the sketch book. I used the "scan" feature on my iPhone to take a pdf pic of that. I sent...

Nothing yet.

Ok, I've held my peace so far. I've just saw where Mr. Ward poo-pop'd @barlowchiro 's sales post with his keyboard diarrhea. Time for him to bounce.

Smells like a Jet Mill/Drill. Love to find one of those used.

That a kid! Check out Reeder Products grinders. Very good pricing on complete packages and very well reputed machines.

Kinda depends on the pottery. A regular horizontal "knifemaker" oven would be about the unhandiest thing in the world for pottery I'd imagine. A vertical oven like a Jen Ken heat bath might be better.

Real nice!

You don't have to rub it in bro! ;)

I've been thinking about trying a stool. I get about 2 hours on my feet in front of the grinder and both legs are feeling like they're getting zapped with a fencer. Takes about a half hour to decompress after I do that.

I think the vibratory stuff can work, but it takes some experimenting and process adjustment. My Lyman tumbler work great with limestone from my driveway. My bigger new tumbler took some adjusting to get it to work right.

I've got a couple blowers that I was aiming to build a small forge with, but never got to it this winter.

No it won't. Not with a piece of flint. And good sparking steels will not if tempered too much.

Truth. Here's a rule of the thumb. If it's long enough to reach from one side of the log to the other, it will be batoned through it. Even if there's only a 1/4" of the tip sticking through the other side.

I have the same basic stuff. It's not aggressive enough to really put a stone washed look on a knife. It will scratch up etched blades, but doesn't develop the texture you're after. So I see two issues with mine. One is you may not be getting enough action in your tumbler. It shouldn't just...

I use the horizontal part just enough to make it not cost effective to do a porta band. You got Jets and Grizzlies in the $800-$1000 range, and I just can't see that much upgrade from the $500-$700 options. Then there is the bottom end $350-$450 stuff I don't think I'm interested in, though I...

Nope, you just need a sharp edge that's strong enough to scrape a shard off of the rod. I personally don't like to use the knife for two reasons. It makes it ugly. The little hot shards can stick to the blade and make little pock marks. And, more importantly, knives are meant to cut things like...

Metal!

My wonderful little early 80's Buffalo Tool horizontal bandsaw died the big death on me this week. The brass gear gave up the ghost. I suppose if it was newer and/or in better shape, I'd fix it. So it's time for a new one. I see lots of the new 64 1/2" bladed horizontals come with a little...

If'n I was a pro fabricator, this is the machine I'd use. Simple and cheap. Works like the berries. https://weldingdirect.com/htr121elheat.html