Well I finally stopped by the local hardware store that stocks the Shop Fox. I really didn't want to get the bottom end same china 3 speed saw, but datgummit, he's only got it marked at $310. That's pretty hard to turn down. $20 cheaper than my local HF sale price.
I like brute de forge. But people who are good at forging don't leave hammer marks in the work. In fact, I ain't good at it and it's still easier not to leave hammer marks than it is to leave a well-done finish with hammer marks, like @52 Ford said it's a pain in the butt to do a good ball pein...
Just a guess...but since you're forging and will likely be heat treating from pearlite, you could probably drop the temp quite a bit and not worry too much about hold time. Like 1475F and 5 min.
Honestly, most of them are doing it wrong. I say that from experience.
Forge heat treating can be done. But you really need a much, much better understanding of basic heat treating than any beginner has.
I think Uddeholm is the mill that makes "real" AEB-L. Like many other steels, there are lots of close copies. Those generally fit under a grading system, but I don't know if that applies to AEB-L and similar compositions. This is not unique in the steel world. Steels like A2, D2, 52100, 1095...
I mean, I take a basket full of knives with me everywhere I go. I keep 2 MORAS in my truck, an axe, a hatchet, a shovel, a folding saw, all kinda tools. And a FUBAR. I'd flatly refuse to strap my butt to a rocket and not take a knife...
My local guy is .005", or less usually.
I'm thinking some here have used NJSB. Perhaps they'll chime in with specifics.
ETA: that's +/-, so .010" total.