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Yes.... even with a single "quill" guard, if you try to put it on a hidden tang dead nuts square... the top will look like it's leaning backwards..... and the knife type that we seem to make a lot of... Drop points, intensify the optical illusion. Those parts/pieces in the pics are a...

For me the angle is determined by the backside of the guard material.... which means I decided the angle when I am finishing the shoulders on the blade. I ALWAYS build/file/cut those shoulders, and install guards with the upper side noticeably leaning towards the tip of the blade. That is...

Hidden tangs are my specialty! I will try to add what I can, to what's already been said. First, block size is very important, you will eventually come to your own desired size, based on the type of handles you want to produce. That beings said.....remember.....you can take material...

I remember meeting Harold YEARS ago, when I was still a "pup" chasing down advice of experienced makers. Those who are newer have no idea how it was back then! I refer to it as "The Dark Years"..... when EVERYTHING was a "secret". Imagine asking another knifemaker "What steel do you...

That piece has A LOT of eye appeal! You nailed the "flow" on that one really well.

Looking good brother!! Keep us posted!

Ernie's son Bo is running it now..... he's just as good as his Dad. Great to deal with, and offers a great product. Bo Grospitch: 720-379-4651 email: design@bigguyillustration.com

I have a tapping head (purchase from Enco before they went under), and a dedicated drill press for it. John is correct in above.... IF you are going to use your existing drill press, the tapping head MUST be a JT3. Once you get a tapping head mounted on a drill press, you DO NOT want to be...

I sent you PM

Sorry for being late to respond, we had a quick weather change yesterday, and the Lupus had me balled up on the couch most of the day. Anyway, as has been mentioned..... K&G is the "go to" for stabilizing. There is a reason the turnaround is often long with them....it's because they are...

Few to none. Tru-Oil, or other natural oil type finishes are arguably the best overall. An option that I often use for the type of finish you're talking about, and it only works with specific types of woods, is to simply polish, and then wax. Another good option is stabilizing.... with...

Likely the biggest Cons to creating CA finishes on knife handles..... is it's longevity. If applied to using knives, the finish will turn yellow or milky with repeated/long term exposure to moisture. Some CA is UV resistant (not UV proof) and others are not. The CA formulas that are...

Hey everyone! Just a heads up.... I had the wrong link in this post concerning the 4-40 clevis(es) that I use..... I have corrected it. My apologies!

I use caged bearings, with ceramic balls in both liner locks and frame locks. Every now and again, I will use bronze washers, but those are for specific use situations.

Hmmmm?? Wonder if he ever came back to check on this thread?

Make sure you look at the dates on threads! This one is OLD. It's always best policy to start a new thread instead of trying to restart an old one. ;)

Word of advice...... GET R' DONE!! Everybody ALWAYS shorts themselves when it comes to building their presentation test knives! I can't count the number of people that I've had to fail because they shorted themselves on time, and then rushed the last 1-2 knives....and those are the ones that...

VERY NICE!! That is a great example of a simple design with superior execution! That is the type of knife that judges at the JS level are looking for. ;)

OK... you're talking tension on the action. How hard or soft the action/travel, is directly related to how tight you tighten a pivot screw. With washers, you can't go very tight, and over time the washer will "wear in" and then the pivot will require adjustment.....that's just the nature of...

You could always buy a Caffrey Angle Peen!!! ;) If certain other folks can do shameless promos, may I should too? :oops: