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It's exciting to step up into the variable speed world! I know some folks will disagree with me, but I absolutely hate those type of VFDs. I have spend endless hours, both on the phone, and in person, trying to help people solve issues/problems. Everything from them simply stopping...

Here's a link to the outfit I was talking about. My friend purchased the single cylinder model, but I've not heard his opinion of it. After looking them over and seeing the price, I personally think they want too much money for the double cylinder model versus what you get for that money...

I've not done a lot of things since, but I have tried, and successfully did turn a couple of loose 10" buffing wheels into sewn ones! :)

For years I owned/worked on a Carlisile "C" frame press. On the plus side.... about 270 degrees or working radius. On the down side, FLEX.... and I don't think you can reinforce a "C" frame enough to stop the flex.... I never could. Eventually, around the 10 year mark, the bottom die holder...

NICE!! Been in your shoes, and once the upgrade was complete, I don't know how I did anything before. Absolutely change the grinder to 220/240! My old Wilton Square wheel machine was 1hp, 110 or 220v..... wired at 110 I could stop it and/or kick the breaker with just a tad too much...

Hmmmm..... First time in my career I've ever heard of that steel type. Personally, I think somebody, somewhere along the way, is either confused....or got some bad info.

I'm not John, but what I use, and like the best in the bronzes are..... "Bearing" bronze Bearing bronze has a lead content of about 6 to 8%. The higher lead content gives it a low-friction property, making it useful in high wear environments, specifically areas that are difficult to access or...

Interested in more Ted! Please, once you get it polished up.... I'd like to see if fingerprints, etc. cause fast tarnish (I am suspecting that it will, due to the copper content). That same copper content brings into question how well it would do in press fit scenario. Nickel Silver has, for...

That is strange! The curing temp. Before I wrote my last post, I actually checked the label on my can of Satin clear Gun-Kote..... it says "cure at 300F, for one hour AFTER parts reach temperature" Then I read what you wrote.....about 325F, went and checked the Gun-Kote site/data sheets...

I suspect you would be sleeping in the shop if you did it in the house..... and might even be buying a new kitchen range. Just my opinion....but I don't think it smells horribly strong when baking on, but my Mrs. ....... won't even come in the shop when I'm baking Gun-Koted blades, and asks...

I've tailored my method of sharpening on the grinder, to match the flow of how I make knives. Most of what I build are flat grinds, with convex edges. When I come off my final grit belt during finish grinding, my goal is for a blade to be "ragged sharp". That is then cleaned up/accentuated...

Honestly, I can't remember that last time I used a "sharpening stone" type item in the shop. It's so much more efficient to use the grinder. Now, that being said, I do use the DMT and/or EZ-Lap "paddle" varieties for various tasks around the shop. They are particularly handy for...

I just now saw this thread! That is simply a temperature issue. Gun-Kote, and especially the clear, calls for 300F for 1 hour AFTER the entire part has reached temp. Part of the reason for that curing specific curing temp, is that at 300F, the steel will NOT change color..... I've found...

I have in the past. With other steels like 80CRV2 available..... I don't think it's worth the effort. It's more of a "toughness" steel, which holds up well to chopping/abuse, but doesn't hold an edge as well as I had hoped it would. Just my opinion, but I'd pick 80CRV2 over it any day...

The files have a bit of a learning curve, but are not difficult. I would consider them an "in the ballpark" kind of thing rather then a "dead nuts on" thing. :) I fall into what Ted was talking about..... I used to pay the local community college to test my blades.....but but it became so...

My personal favorite, and most used guard material is Nickel Silver. Jantz is the only outfit that carries the grade I prefer. I buy 3/8" x 3/4" barstock. Not long ago I stumbled upon a killer deal on a 6 ft bar of bronze (can't recall the grade off the top of my head), that was 1 1/2" X...

Pretty much what Chris said..... Mine is aluminum plate, punched full of holes, with 1/4-20 carriage bolts on each corner, heads down, allowing to raise the plate up/down for various depths.

There's a lot to that one liner.... There is a lot of interaction between heat, mass, and how a particular items "holds" or allows heat to migrate and/or escape. The metallurgy answer is that heat dissipates equally in all directions from hot to cold. I choose to view, and use it in...

I've been dealing with them for years. Never visited, but got to know several of them at the Blade Show. They are my go to for all my synthetic handle materials. You can save a bunch of money buying 1/2 or whole sheets of g10, micarts, etc.

If you're getting those "belt bump" (kind of a scalloped look) on anything you're grinding, then you're moving the material too fast. On your last couple of passes, go VERY slowly, and you won't have those when you're done. It seems counterintuitive, but it works.