Search results

The stud goes upside down into the anvil. The rivet is inserted through the leather from the back and then placed on/in the stud and is driven home with a hammer. NO! they do not come apart.....EVER!!! I prefer the rivet back over the screw back because when installed the rivet back sets...

Bingo! Josh, and Dwayne, the stud is not the frog. You are correct. Also I don't know who or what Sam BrownE (notice the E in Browne) is or was, but the old Military and Police Dept. rigs consisting of a heavy waist belt and a strap running diagonally over the shoulder were called Sam Browne...

.....and you just ADD to the quality of the group.2thumbs Paul

JDW here's a little set up I made for and take down knife and it's little companion piece. it hangs from the retention strap stud and the take downtool rides on the front of the little sheath. Paul

That's my sheath you pictured and the Sam Browne studs I use come from Tandy/Leather factory stock number 1309-02. They refer to them as "Sam Browne Button/Washer" and the type I prefer is a rivet back and will require a small anvil (about 89 cents) to set them with. The anvil is listed along...

Fantastic first attempt!! John Cohea will be proud of you. It does need to have those beads replaced though. Paul

Robin!, I don't know where you have been posting, but this is the first of your amazing work I've seen and damn, brother you are good! I kind of get the idea from the carving that you may have built a custom saddle or two, huh? It is really good to see carving of that high calibre from time...

I have three different brands and they all work fine. One of them happens to be a Barry King so I would recommend his as quickly as any. I do do prefer the round, non tapered style. Paul

Chef I use the maul shape which is round and cylindrical, and mine are non tapered style. I use a 16oz., 26oz., and 48oz. I formerly used rawhide mallets, but once you get used to the round mauls I much prefer them to the mallet or hammer style. While the mauls are fairly expensive they are...

Beautiful work from both directions! Paul

It is being discussed right now. Scheduling has yet to be completed. Paul

I prefer 2 inch MINIMUM thick marble slab. 3"....even better. 4" even better than that. Polished or at least VERY smooth. 12"X18" is a good size. Paul

Yes, I know him, and have done quite a bit of work for him. 2thumbs I hope you can make a deal on the machine. Paul

Chef, there is a guy over on another forum talking about selling his Tippman Boss. You might contact him and make a deal. http://www.bladeforums.com/forums/showthread.php?t=749748 Paul

This will make your learning curve shorten considerably. It's a great book for beginners and I still refer to it from time to time and I've been at this since 1951. http://www.tandyleatherfactory.com/home/department/Books-Patterns/61960-00.aspx?feature=Product_148 That link will take you...

Lengths and prices please. pfl@cebridge.net Thanks. Paul

Here is a link to a post I made elsewhere explaining a quick and easy fix for a loose pouch sheath. http://www.knifenetwork.com/forum/showpost.php?p=408078&postcount=3 POaul

The Tippman boss is a very good idea as a first machine. I had one as my first machine and used it for about 3 years before I stepped up to my Artisan 4000. There is a very short learning curve, but once you get to know the machine it will perform well and long. I suspect that people who did...

Dan, pictured here is a small horizontal sheath pattern. Once you have looked at it and perhaps made a copy, give me a call and I will walk you through it on the phone. All my contact information is below. Paul

Considering the leather for knife sheaths primarily, I would disagree with you 180 degrees. The very best leather from my years of experience is the most firm leather you can find (short of what is called sole bends). It is the loose fiber flesh side that makes the softer more pliable dry...