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Most folks recommend getting it from here:http://www.hightemptools.com/wirerope.html. This way you know what you're getting (high carbon extra improved plow steel), which you can heat treat pretty much like 1080. Prices look pretty decent too. Of course, lots of folks use whatever they can...

I am considering one of these as a general forging forge with the thought that it would be more efficient for every day use. If I did this I'd still want to build a larger welding forge eventually (I have used and very much like Ed Caffrey's design), but I see this as having the potential to be...

I already have one but could certainly find use for another. I'm in with 672.

Are the knives, scrimshaw, or both your work? The scrim is truly first rate.

Todd Davison told me elsewhere that he eyeballs his and does it by hand. I guess some folks can get away with that. I'm not one of them. Here is an example from earlier today:

I've been planning my next project, and it involves coined spacers and liners to set off my blued steel frame handle and fittings. There are several ways to do it, I know, but I'd like to know how the real pros go about this. Checkering file? Knurling wheel? File and eyeball? Related...

Blade looks good. Any progress?

Me too. When we're done we should start a thread for "Frame Handled Knives Inspired by Bruce's WIP".

They in San Marcos? If so, they seemed like good guys when they called me last year, but, as you know last year was pretty bad. If you need a hand with anything, let me know.

Hi J We met at the Alberta Hammer-in, and even talked about your antiqued finish and how to do it (I don't remember all the details, though the basics stuck), but I can't figure out how you antiqued the spine of the tang on these. It appears that you shaped the scales after glue-up, but that...

WOW Erin, that's really, really nice. The style isn't exactly for me, but the execution is stunning, and the deep fluting really works.

Bruce, How do you control lateral (side to side) movement of the tang within the frame so that it stays centered? Do your alignment tabs simply fit tight enough to avoid this? I've been thinking about making a few frame handled daggers out of some of the billets we made at Jim's, so these...

I think I've seen that one. This online dealer in Houston? If so they have a massive collection of customs they got at a collector's estate sale. Some great deals to be had...

Thanks fellas! This is exactly what I needed.

Lesson learned.

I'm planning on doing exactly this with the TW90, and have the same concern. Consequently, I paid attention this weekend when I was at another maker's shop who had a surface grinder (several really), and everything we need to surface was usually less than 8 inches. I think one could run into...

Preach. On. Not only is this financially responsible, it's also self-motivating. Besides that, there's no quicker way to kill the joy in something you love doing than to start depending on it for your daily bread.

If a surface grinder is out of the ballpark cash flow wise, a good etcher, more supplies (steel, belts, sandpaper), accessories for the grinder like small wheel attachments, better shop lighting, tongs for your oven, heat treat foil if you do stainless (and quench plates), a knife vise (this...

Surface grinder, hands down.

If I understand you correctly, then at the "C" stage Jim's rolling mill (another thing I now think I need in my shop) might be the perfect tool for the job. It'll distort any pattern lengthwise (which doesn't matter at this stage) but not widen anything significantly, and would allow you to...