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Thanks Bruce. Working on it. Might be able to sell something one day...

Thought I’d share my latest. Kitchen Trio. 8 inch slicer. 6 inch Utility. 3.5 inch Paring AEB-L at 62 HRC

Good set up! How did you decide how much to over bend it?

I would opt for 1/2” MDF personally. It will be a less flexible, but a tad heavier, if that is a concern. Lots of ways and materials to “edge band” it. Just miter from corner to corner. Might find some molding that will work.

MDF (preferred) or Baltic Birch plywood and I would use epoxy to bond the squares. Then I would edge band around all the edges with a complimentary wood. Could even use strips of brass or Damascus. ;-) Seal it all with Polyurethane or TruOil.

Tubular rivet.

Hi thomster. I have not used that particular brand, but I have tried doing a CA finish using medium and thick formulas. They were more work than using very thin CA. The thin sets very fast without the need for accelerant. Pretty much the moisture from your breath will start the set. CA is a...

Hey TJ, I personally like Tru-Oil because of the feel of it. Seems to me it is grippier than the other finishes I’ve tried. The only thing that I don’t care for on some woods is its slight amber color. And it doesn’t look like a plastic coating.

Tru-Oil

Just keep it clean and wrapped. The longer the better. After it closes up use some safety tape that only sticks to itself. I really despise laying my fingernail against the running belt. For some reason it hurts.

Thank you Ed, I appreciate your time earned experience and sharing. I do use stabilized wood and add a Tru-Oil finish to those as well because it adds a certain something to the feel - almost a grippiness. It also adds to mellow and mute the colors a bit, which I am not always wanting because...

So, if one wants a durable, absolutely clear finish without a “plastic” look to it, what are the options? I mainly use Tru-Oil, but it generally adds a yellowish cast and it mutes some vivid colors, etc.

Hi Ted. Yes, it do stink and burns my eyes and nose! Most likely because I exhale on it to add moisture to speed curing. Here’s a good enough video I found. I use small pieces of folded coffee filters to spread and I use extra thin CA glue. I really want his buffing attachment ! Scott

Here’s a link to a USDA article. “What is arcing”...

FYI, it is the minerals in the food that causes the sparking. Not uncommon it seems, although I don’t watch food cooking in a microwave. Well, I don’t cook except on a campfire.

Mine is a grinder by Pheer that has a tension arm with an exposed spring. Would be easy to replace, but I would not like to replace it and find I am shortening component lives or breaking belts. I usually compress the spring close to completely, but not all the way. The going left only happens...

Without a belt tension gage, how would one go about measuring this? I ask because my grinding belt will also move to my left when really pushing hard. I would replace the spring, but I don’t want to exceed what all belts can handle. I am wondering how tight the grinders with a ratcheting system...

What would be the maximum tension a belt can handle?

I use Gflex 650. I checked with the manufacturer and they intimated that I could warm it to somewhere around 120F. So, I just place them in front of a little, forced air space heater in my office. I set it standing by use of spring clamps that act as legs on the floor with a plastic bags to...

S35VN .125 at 60 HRC Flame Box Elder w/black, yellow liners. Copper Loveless bolts.