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One thing I am wondering about, although I have never tried it in the past, is just to add Babbit instead of removing and pouring new. Otherwise you have to melt it out , form and pour new, then comes the shaping and sizing. A lot of work!

It would be good to know what clearances or tapers you've got there. Plastigage would eliminate the need to take it apart further. Just clean the surfaces well before. I have had good success using a rod or bolt (fully unscrewed) to tap on to loosen the bearing cap. S

The use of Plastigage, even before can tell you a lot.

The thing about Babbitt bearings, since they are poured into place, then are scraped to provide clearance is that they can allow for misalignments, concentricity, etc.,to some degree. The old car engines and machinery weren't as accurately produced to today's exacting tolerances. Hopefully you...

I, personally, would remove the pillow block caps and take a peek. Here's a U.K link you might email. http://www.lathes.co.uk/flather/ and this >>> http://vintagemachinery.org/mfgindex/detail.aspx?id=2187 hope this helps. Scott

$1.00 an inch is a reasonable charge. Of course it depends on the blade style, etc. Scissors and other items I would add more.

Nice blade shape.

Use a telescoping magnet? Or one on a wire...

Just a bit too perfect!

MTBob, I have a couple of those, one for the truck, another for the kitchen and in the shop as well. 600 grit and fast! To maintain an edge it is a no fuss solution. Just match the angle and go. I do find that a 600 grit edge does all our cutting needs perfectly. Scott

RIP James. Thanks for all your contributions. My condolences to Mrs. Poplin.

Appreciate the info MTBob. I'll give the naphtha, etc., a try.

Thank you J, Doyle. I'm hoping for a solvent to dip or soak it in to avoid any abrasives. If I can do it with the dunk/soak, then I'll do another Ferric dip and see how that turns out.

Good day all. I made a knife from O1 (60 hrc) steel, sanded it to 400 grit and did a few Ferric dunks. It came out the way I wanted so I protected it with Johnson's paste wax while I decided on scales. Having handled it during the laying around / decision process, I managed to lightly scratch...

Teflon: Clean surface to remove oils, etc., sandblast to roughen, spray the coating and bake to cure. Kydex to Kydex: Devon Plastic Welder works. CA glue works as well for small areas that are not subject to flexing. I've not tried the rubber reinforced CA glues yet.

Sharp Lil Sticker O1 @ 60 HRC

I have used solid (not "engineered") Bamboo flooring and lumber. The end results are fairly plain. Some I used with the layers showing, others sanded through to show the layers. It can machine sanding burn real easy. Bamboo still needs sealing well. I have not tried staining it yet... Also, a...

Kraken Killer !

Hi Bruce, Happy Holidays to you and yours! And to all the same! May your knives be merry and bright.

Thank you Gene. I am still having a challenge arriving at a uniform sanded finish. What does everyone use to do a final wipe down with? I have tried Acetone, denatured alcoho, paint thinner and rubbing alcohol. All seem to leave a haze. I have changed and tried many different rags and cloths.