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My very limited experience is that, despite their apparent simplicity, blacksmiths tongs have a learning curve (I consider them the work of the devil). Since you are asking, it seems possible you have not spent much time using them. I would not recommend making your first acquaintance with them...

One segment, but that's ample for a tempering oven. It's even good enough for Austenitizing many steels. The biggest limitation of not having ramp/soak (or at least ramp) is that you probably won't be able to anneal air-hardening steels. Most Carbon steels will anneal if you switch off and let...

I think the CN7500 series is "just" the 1/32 DIN version of the CN7xxx range of controllers. I have used the 7200, 1/4 DIN (96 x 96mm) and 7600 1/8 DIN vertical (48mm wide x 96mm tall) versions. I like the 7200 best because, being twice the size, it's easier to see the display from several feet...

I’d avoid the Inkbird. There’s a thread on one of the forums where the OP has one and can’t get it to display over 1000 degC. There also seems to be a bit of a question mark over it’s auto tune, and It’s a pretty basic controller anyway. I use Automation Direct Solo 4848vr or Omega CN7823...

The GM1312 should be fine. In my experience, it's an accurate instrument. The downsides to it are that it'll switch itself off automatically after some period and that, because it will work with several different thermocouple types, you need to be sure it's set to the correct one each time. I...

Connect the system you want to evacuate to the inlet port and vent the outlet port.

The one you mention has a round-pin connector on the end. I think you probably need a TJ36-CAXL-14U-12. That is a transition junction assembly and has 3’ of thermocouple wire ready to connect to your PID controller.

I go in through the work port of the forge and this lets the tip be put pretty much anywhere that the workpiece might reach. I tend to want to know how temperatures vary throughout the forge. Insertion depth depends on the forge and the reason I use 24” is to keep the handle, and my hand, from...

How low is the speed when you hear it? Quite a few VFDs and motors do not run smoothly much below about 10 Hz. I’ve never heard an unloaded motor actually make a noise that could be mistaken for a dodgy bearing at low speed, but it seems plausible. If it’s quiet above 10 Hz, it could just be that.

No. You don't need a long drill bit. The welding-rod pin IS the drill bit. You do need a drill bit that makes a hole to start it off in the right direction (maybe an inch or two deep), but then you just use the welding rod as the drill bit, drill as deep as you want to go, cut off the bit that...

No. I'd just push the sagging brick up and put a pin right through from front to rear to keep it in place. I'd go a bit over an inch in from the right-hand end of the brick and about the same up from the top of the chamber. You'd be drilling into the exposed front face of the IFB where you can...

I'd try tightening the band first. If that does no good, I'd try really hard to get Evenheat to sort it. If that also reaches the end of the line and you have no choice but to do it yourself, my method would be as follows. Push the offending IFBs up into position and pack them with something...

As Ed says, the wire is absolutely critical. I’ll try to explain why. A thermocouple is just 2 different metals in intimate contact with one another. When the junction is heated or cooled, a (very small) Voltage is produced which varies with the temperature. There are an infinite number of...

I used to use TM902C handheld digital thermometers (pyrometers) from Ebay. They read DegC only and only work with a typeK thermocouple. One disadvantage is that you need to convert if you think in degF. An advantage is that there is no way of having it set on the wrong range. Another advantage...

I know a few people who do it on a regular basis. I don't actually know how sensitive the steels we usually use *really* are to temperature fluctuations of the magnitude seen in domestic ovens, whether convection or toaster. I did some measurements on my first homebuilt HT oven and found the...

You probably "should" match the motor to the VFD. That way you get the advanced protection settings that are appropriate to your setup. However, if you match the big motor and VFD, you can usually unplug the big motor, plug in and run the small one without problems. You will not have optimized...

If you look at the graphs above, the "control" thermocouple which was the one also connected to the PID controller and therefore the temperature that would be displayed did not show overshoot at all. The other 3 thermocouples were .060", .020" and "very thin": my best guess would be around...

The main reason for not using the same oven for Austenitizing and tempering is the amount of time it takes to cool from Austenitizing temperature to tempering temperature. The bricks hold heat for a long time, so you can't just switch it off, open the door and wait until it shows tempering...

This is something to be expected. Evenheat will almost certainly have found that their customers want fast heating to Austenitizing temperatures and will have tuned the controller accordingly. This will tend to result in substantial overshoot at the much lower tempering temperatures unless steps...

None of it is particularly difficult, but the differences between poor HT ovens and very good HT ovens are not necessarily apparent to most people, though some can quickly become apparent once the mistakes have been made. Much of the value in an HT oven from the big names is that they've made...