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Coating is dependent on what you are trying to do. I've used Sodium Silicate (waterglass) for HT "forges", that'll never get above 1100 degC, 2000 degF. Mostly, a suspension of Zirconium Silicate (Zircopax) in commercial rigidizer does well for "forging forges" IME, but for welding temperatures...

There are many ways to cut it, depending on what you are trying to achieve and what you have available. I usually try to use a sharp knife or chisel whenever possible. It doesn't stay sharp and needs regular attention, but it's the method that tends to cause the least airborne fibres, as far...

As I understand things, the 321 is rated to 2000 degF and is pretty reliable to 2000 degF. Above that, the 309 is significantly more reliable. If you never go above 2000 degF, there is no technical benefit to using the 309. There are certainly those who use it for everything, but this is...

In the video, a 300 litre receiver is mentioned (around 80 Gallon). 80mm bore x 200 stroke is as near as dammit one litre. In round figures, there are 30 litres to a Cubic Foot. If we feed at 100 PSI(g), we'll need about 7.5 litres of free air per working stroke, or 1/4 Cubic Foot. It'll...

I made one from part of an old Fork Lift Tine, maybe 5 years ago. Used a Rotabroach with TCT cutter to get the large radii and an angle grinder for most of the rest. Finally finishing the working faces on the belt grinder. The material was reasonably hard and properly tough as found (I tried to...

Looks to be a version of the AT1. I have a couple of 220V, single-phase in, 220V single-phase out AT1s. They work. The only awkward part I found when setting them up was that when setting 3-wire control, the "Stop" command input needs a Normally-Open pushbutton, not the Normally-Closed...

For Austenitizing most of the stainless steels, the main advantage of an electric HT oven seems to be its (reasonably) tight temperature control and the way it can be set and left to run while the operator gets on with something else. If you can get similarly tight temperature control from a gas...

If you are running SSR(s), a couple of other controllers worth considering are the AutomationDirect Solo 4848VR and the Omega CN7823. They are the same controller with different badges. As far as I can tell, they have the same ramp/soak capabilities as the Auber SYL 23x2p, but there is a...

Caveat: I'm in the UK and we have 230V domestic mains supply here. I don't think you'll need to change anything on the motor. I think the output side will be putting out 220V, even when you are on a 110V supply. If I'm reading things correctly, there is a step-up circuit that effectively steps...

I have built both ways. Unless you have an unusual design, a single element will need to go across the back of the oven, but there will be no element across the front because that's where the door is. After my first build, all mine have used 2 elements, sides only, to avoid creating a...

It's (probably) just the nature of the beast. The flame will establish where the flame speed through the mixture matches the mixture speed. The flame speed varies with several factors, one of which it temperature. As the mixture exits the burner nozzle, it tends to spread out and slow down...

That's presumably 6 PSI upstream of the needle valve and with a blown burner? What happens if you feed it 20 PSI upstream of the valve? That should get more flow through the fully-open needle valve let you adjust the gas flow downwards with the needle valve as intended. It's worth mentioning...

I'm in the UK and we don't see a lot of the KB Electronics drives over here, but I have used quite a lot of different drives. As Bossdog says, a lot of drives don't play well at low frequencies, below about 10 Hz. These tend to be V/F drives, aka V/Hz drives. These vary the Voltage and the...

2 hours to stabilize at 1975 degF seems like a long time. The last couple of HT ovens I built were 230V, 3000 Watt (the UK uses 13A-fused domestic plugs and 230V nominal mains Voltage, so the elements were sized for around 12.5A on 240V: 3 kW. The rationale being that there is some tolerance...

Try looking at it differently. See if you can find anyone who has posted an “I regret going for a VFD” anywhere without a specific reason (30+ year old motor, poor choice of VFD: cheap unsealed VFD with no manual or sealing, running off a generator, etc). It may help with your decision. I don’t...

If you have a thermocouple for measurement, stick it in the oven on its own and watch the swing (this is what you've already done), then without changing the oven setting, take out the thermocouple, bury it in the middle of 2" depth of dry sand in a tray, put it back in and watch the swing...

http://www.morganmms.com/media/7316/201907_morgan-molten-broschuere-noltina-19-web.pdf http://www.morganfireprotection.com/media/1754/stabil-mgam.pdf I think that's probably an A40 size: about 8 litres brim-full capacity. Not big by industrial standards, but bigger than most backyard casters...

There are many things that can be adjusted, but at the end of the day, you need to find the easiest thing to adjust in order to get the results you need from the equipment you have. It seems pretty clear from the information provided that you are running too rich. A Naturally Aspirated burner...

I think the heatsink might be the limiting factor, rather than the SSR. I think those small extruded heatsinks are only rated to about 15A without a fan, regardless of the rated capacity of the SSR. I'd close it up as it is and give it a try. If you fry the 25A SSR, you'll have the 40A to...

Be aware that an imported "standard" US one will not fit a metric motor shaft (IEC frame standards). The US tends to use NEMA motors and the Nielsen hubs fit 5/8" shafts. NEMA motors are typically 3 to 4 times the price of similarly-rated IEC motors in the UK. It's not particularly difficult...