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Still in process, but getting there. Rear bolster is also fit, but needs a little work. Both bolsters are mild steel and I will probably darken them.

I tried the same thing on the rear. This is where I got a little carried away. The antler is old and dry so it disappeared fast under 80 grit. I used channel locks to hold it tight for shaping. I'm going to peen the end of the tang over, so I didn't want threads. The gap at the front closes up

Working on my first heirloom fit. It went well near the front, the rear bolster is questionable. Line up pins changed the way I built knives. Definitely important for doing this. The earlier pictures show that I had everything flush. I removed the antler, scribed a line on the bolster/black...

These are going back into heat treating at the moment. I heated up the edge on one. The hamon wasn't high up as I wanted on it anyway. And the hamon isn't distinct near the tip of the other.

I had wondered if a tile saw would be the same thing. There's a used tool shop nearby that has wet cutting saw for $275. It looked like it had a 6-7" blade that would make nice slabs. Better than an angle grinder for sure. Dukats are slim at the moment and it probably won't last long.

Thanks Dennis

Those hamons are beutiful.

Still thinking about how I will attach the scales. No front and rear bolsters this time. But I will relieve the edges of the scales away from the spine. I would like to go with no visible fasteners, in order to avoid drilling all the way through the stone. If not, I’ll use screws so the scales...

Been awhile… I ruined the knife I wanted to put these scales on. I’m working with 26c3 now, a new to me steel - and I think I have a knife design which will go well with it and the stone.

…the design in the sheath is striking, too

I especially like the contrast in the blade - both in the bevels and the spine.

Very nice!

this is for a small knife - 3/32 tang and 1/8 rod i think its good to have three points of contact on the solder joint. i tried adding a head this time for a little more grip. i used silver solder that jantz sells. I think It flows at 1200 degrees. Sorry for being brief - the kids want the computer.

Much respect Gliden, But personally I think it's good to support the US economy right now.

Second knife is in the recycle bin. I had a hard time refining the grain, so it was getting smaller and smaller like this one. This video has additional photos on the grind and shows a knife with a fuller higher up from the edge than most of the other yakut knives I've seen so far online...

Making knife parts Got some fit up done on the front bolster, spacer, and the handle material. Rear bolster was about done, but the hole was off centered, so it's not going to work. I might try my first heirloom fit on this knife.

Wow, good job. I've always been scared to try.

Since the handle material is already pretty old and not stabilized, I'm doing two bolsters with a tang extension. Even though it is weathered it will clean up. Honestly, I hope I didn't create a weak area above the bolster and I have this for a long time.

Thanks, I'll search it up a little, too,. Now I have more of an idea what to watch for and I'll look at the Puronvarsis. I'd like to see how to sharpen grinds that come to zero. I want to figure out this knife - how it works and how it sharpens. I used it a little and the flat/convex...

how much meat do you want just behind the edge on a a puukko? is a puukko a bushcrafter?