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Yeah, what he said...

I can really see additional benefit if someone is hand sewing their leather too. You can cut perfect stitching holes in every project. No more drilling.

Good deal brother. Holler if I can help.

I wonder if that would work in a cannister weld...Wait what am I thinking, I never peel cans...

We excel at spending each other's money...

I will do you one better...Shoot me an email and I will send you the DXF file. It will import straight into LightBurn

Here is a sheath I drew out for a KA-Bar style knife I am working on. Front, back, loop welt and strap all cut at once and ready to glue and sew.

I will second what Ken said and add that in the pictures I posted, I just sprayed that one with rubbing alcohol and wiped it down. Done!

Good point, I stand corrected...

Got it. When cutting leather there is not a happy smell. I would not do it in the house. If you have ever smelled a burning animal then you know what burning leather smells like. Not too good!

Another tip I will share is to cut out all of your prototype leather projects out of cardboard first to see how things fit together and look. This one thing has saved me a lot of wasted leather...Cardboard is generally free.

If I understand the question correctly, when I do engraved cutouts I do the engraving parts first, then I do any inside cuts and last I do the outside cuts. If this is not what you are asking let me know. LightBurn makes it easy to change the orders of things.

I hope you like it. I am currently working on how to best mark my Damascus blades with the laser. All of my Damascus blades are coated with Gun-Kote so I am trying to figure the best time mark them. I was very happy with my results on Mono steel though.

MAN, the handle kit, including all the leather and spacers plus guard and pommel are like $7. Their guards are a little thin for my tastes but the rest is surely worth $7...

Here is a video showing the results I mentioned. I will also add some advice based on my experience so far. When the leather pieces are complete there is some carbon (char) on the edge grain. I take an emory board and hit them real quick. That removes the char from the cutting process and...

It will cut 10/11 ounce leather in one pass.

Whatever works my friend. If I remember right you got a 3d printer too so a lot of the operation should be similiar. You are better than me at putting stuff together but I recommend watching a couple of assembly videos on youtube before assembly. I found the pictograph assembly instructions...

Do you have a lathe?

The one I have (actual KA-Bar) is more oval and tapered like you mentioned. Kind of like this one