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I agree on the eighth inch not making much difference because I am notorious for not setting my focal distance prior to using the laser. I have not noticed a big difference especially in leather. Steel, maybe a little.

Maybe use a drill bit just a hair bigger than the pin and drop the surface down just enough to fill with black epoxy and not structurally effect the pin. Sand and polish till your happy?

I was teaching a forging class last weekend and as I was demonstrating how to keep a knife from looking like a banana I thought, "Why not make this demo an upswept old school kitchen knife". It turned out ok, I can see it being very useful in boning, breaking down or skinning an animal. I...

I really do not put a lot of thought into it but since I normally start with 20 layers pretty much 50/50 and I control the look by the number of layers I take the billet to. I like 1075 (.125) and 15N20 (somewhere around .100 or less) for the mix. What layer count are you starting and ending...

I actually did think of something which may help. If you need spring-like qualities AND corrosion resistance that can be HT'd in a forge, then go with a spring steel which can be HT'd well in a forge then use an industrial coating such as KG Gun Kote for the corrosion resistance. May solve...

I am a strong defender of people doing things their own way and not being ridiculed for experimenting outside of accepted norms. That being said, to a knifemaker who uses stainless steel, HT-ing in a forge is so far off of the reservation (so to speak) you are not likely to get many responses...

Very true, it has greatly improved the finished look of my sheaths. I never realized how bad I suck at cutting out leather with a razor knife before the laser.

I have been trying my best to not respond to this thread but clearly I have failed. However, I am only going to say this; rather than doing an inappropriate heat treat and hope it might possibly work, why don't you pick someone trustworthy who knows steel and tell them what you are doing so...

I have marked maybe 6 knives now with mine and I am very happy. 100% power and three passes at 150 mm/m.

Thanks for doing a WIP on your first attempt, that takes guts. I love Hamons, I do not do them all that much anymore because of the warping I normally get but I love the way they look. I stumbled across this video one day and I adopted this guy's method for applying wire and clay to the blade...

Yep. The "heavy duty" ones have just enough pressure to clamp without too much squeeze-out. When you lose the rubber pads on the arms simply wrap in masking tape...or so I have heard.

https://www.harborfreight.com/2-inch-heavy-duty-spring-clamp-91838.html One handed operation...$3 But it is not cool like that clamp so there is give and take for the tool buff.

I would love it if you would do a thread showing your process. I have tried a rattlesnake but it did not turn out well.

Do you tan the skins yourself?

THAT Copperhead skin looks awesome in that sheath.

It is a flat grind, but a hollow grind would do well on a knife like that now that I think about it.

This is based on a knife my Dad had for years. He used it to cape out deer. I changed a few things but I am starting to like it more now. 1080 steel, Satin clear KG-Gun-Kote and python micarta handle. My mark was put on by my laser. The steel is not all splotchy like in the picture. I...

That is a good looking knife brother.

That is sweet. I was thinking, since lasers seems to be becoming more popular among makers as we find more uses for them perhaps we should start a Thread or something where we share info, like speed and power settings for materials or project files and stuff. What do you guys think?

I do not debate pricing any longer. It was detracting from my enjoyment and driving my blood pressure up. I am not a jerk about it but my attitude is, This is the price, someone will pay it or not. When they argue about the price, I am rather like the "soup nazi" "NO KNIFE FOR YOU." That is...