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Ironwood lol

That is true. They are high in the south east for sure.

That is a good video. It's funny to me that we all marvel over the "ring" on an anvil when we first get it, then spend a lot of time and effort trying to stop it from ringing...

If things go my way towards the end of this year I will have a CNC Plasma rig too. I hope it works out.

What that is worth depends on who is looking at it. When I look at it, I see a well used anvil with some damage but it still has use in a forge. The edges, surface and table can be dressed and used as a teaching anvil, or when doing something like punching where I may damage my "good" anvil...

My plan is to drill a hole through the forge body into the heat chamber just larger than the burner. Then weld a short piece of pipe to the forge body where the hole is and drill a few small holes in the piece of pipe. I will thread those holes for small set screws which I will use to hold the...

I am literally too ADD to work in dedicated batches. As Alden said, I know it is better in all aspects production-wise to work with large batches but my interests wander too much for that. I have a lot of those magnetic tool holders lined up to hold WIP's. The far left is for roughed out...

It's hard to tell for sure unless you sand it down to bare wood. The first picture reminds me of Wenge but if it lightens up a good bit when you sand it I would say Bocote or Ironwood. When you re-saw it, Ironwood smells like a$$ to me, so that is one way you can tell...

Like Billy said, pictures are needed of the face especially, from the side it looks like part of the hardened face has broken off. It may also have a sway but I cannot tell from the picture. PW's do tend to sway over time. I have one almost just like it.

Good for you Sean. I used mine this weekend to prototype a new sheath/cover for a Nakiri then to cut the finished product. Made everything so much easier. If I can put the thing together a retired IT guy should have no trouble...

I was would wait for the cash too. I was really just kidding about the knife because we all can make a knife. I would, however, trade you a piece of Damascus for the burners. Then you can make a knife and get $300. It's been on my mind to make a sword length forge because I am tired of...

I'll trade you a knife for them if no one offers cash Lol.

My whole problem with sheath making was with Arthur. Arthur-itis in my hands. Saddle stitching was killing my hands. The Cow Boy Outlaw cured that problem. That being said, I do not enjoy making sheaths like I do knives.

I will have to back @opaul on this one, I have two of his knives/sheaths and I like them both. He may not enjoy it but he does make a good quality sheath.

I have no regrets from buying mine. I know one like Gene has would do a better etch and last longer in the long run but I am satisfied with the job mine does very easily. My main justification, in case it helps you, was because it is a multi-use tool. I mark my name on my knives, make designs...

Sheath makers have to eat too. To me it does not matter, you have your maker's mark and so will the sheath maker.

For marking knives I use it in the house on the table. For cutting or etching leather, I use it in the shop only. I have a little table I put it on in the shop and when cutting leather. I put a piece of steel (old saw blade) under the leather for two reasons. No burning/cutting of my table...

The only other way I could think to do the saw teeth would be to drill a small hole where you wanted each one to stop, then use a saw or angle grinder to cut to the hole then flat needle files for clean up. I do not think it would have been easier/better than what you did.

That is a good point I did not think of trying to cut with the entire blade at once.

I do not know anything about them but here is my go to knife making/forge welding forge. The Metal Smith forge is the one I have. It is built right with 2" of rigidized insulation and I really like the firebrick doors. I have had no trouble with this forge for the last several years...