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I'm not sure yet. I'm going to forge it down some and see what it looks like. I'll probably go with a bowie or a chef's knife.

I think my first mosaic damascus is a success. I did 5 tiles with a split twist pattern around the edges. I wrapped this with used stainless foil and welded a can around it. I forged this to 1/2 it’s original thickness and this is the result.

Here's a couple pictures of the blocks before I welded them to the bases.

This damascus making may get out of hand. Here’s a 400 layer ladder pattern with the new dies. Also working on a mosaic pattern. I’m not sure yet where this one will end up.

Welcome to Knifedogs!

They work great! I'm embarrassed to say, I've had the steel laying around for over a year and just now got them done. The rounding dies work perfect to form the billet before twisting. I've never had a billet twist so nice.

Kaleb and I exchanged KITH knives last week, so I thought I'd post pictures of the knife I finished. I used a piece of curly Koa (Is anyone surprised at that?) for the handle, fastened with 2 corby bolts and 4 3/32" pins in a diamond pattern. On the sheath, I stamped a basket weave...

I’ve been working on some new dies for the forging press. I made a set of full flat dies, ladder dies, rounding dies, squaring dies and dies to split damascus for a feather pattern. Ive gotten to use a few of them and wish I would have made these way sooner

They reached out to me with an offer of samples to try. I did some tests comparing it to g-flex and felt it held up better. I also thought it was smoother applying and didn’t start thickening up as fast as g-flex. I have seen tests from other makers who felt the same. Granted, a knife should...

The last thing I do before gluing is hit the tang on a 60 grit belt and the scales on a 60 grit disc. Blow both off with compressed air then glue. With both being freshly ground, there’s no need to use a cleaner that may leave a residue. I got this tip from Karl Anderson. Also, check out...

Here's the one I have. Mine will hold LN for at least 8 weeks. https://smile.amazon.com/gp/product/B00B4YO1QA/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_search_asin_title?ie=UTF8&psc=1

I’ve done a couple with 1084 or 1095 and wrought iron. I used a 1/4” core and 3/8” wrought when I made them.

I have the new blade hand sanded and ready to get engraved. While I wait to get that done, I got started on the handles. Here’s a video explaining how I drill the pin holes in the scales for the tapered tang.

It's mostly done to reduce weight in the handle to help with balance and for looks. I think it shows another level of skill in one's knife making journey.

Sean, I'm sorry to hear that about your wife. I'll keep you all in my prayers. Family always comes first. I'll make this offer, if at whatever point you determine you won't be able to finish it, let me know and I'll finish it for you. I can then send it back to you and you and Fred can...

Liquid nitrogen or dry ice and denatured alcohol.

I would say you could after annealing it first. For AEB-L, you would foil wrap and soak at 1350 for 12 hours to anneal. I haven’t found anything on 154cm. In Larrin Thomas’ knife engineering book, he recommends 1900 for 20 minutes then plate quench if not using cryo for 154cm.

Welcome aboard!!

The 2nd blade is almost finished with heat treating, in for the 3rd temper cycle. Hopefully this one finishes out better.

I’m planning on doing just that. I’ll see if I can talk my daughter into doing the video work. As you can see, I’m not too good at it.