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Rust bluing might be the ticket. It’s my favorite finish for carbon steel. You can do a lot of different things with it as far as surface effects, and it is very durable. Plus, if it ever rusts, you just hit it with some steel wool and it’s like it never happened

I haven’t done a direct comparison, but I’ve used that stuff on hardened and unhardened steel and never noticed a difference. I use it instead of layout dye sometimes when I want lines to stay for a long time. I don’t know how they “wear” over time.

That top one has sort of an upside down hamony thing going on. That’s pretty cool looking!

I bought some stainless flatware that had stickers on them that were impossible to remove, I tossed them in the HT oven at 900 to take the stickers off. Colored them purpleish. There’s still traces of purple on the forks, that have been used and ran through the dishwasher for about 10 years, so...

If you are doing it on a flat platen, try adding a strip of leather behind the belt on the platen. Having a soft backer seems to make things smoother. I still hand sand a LOT though.

I ran a nitrogen purge in my Paragon for a while. It’s nice on carbon blades because it leaves them clean. I don’t anymore, in the end it was kinda more hassle than it was worth.

I like Naniwa. I did have a 6k, I think it was a King, that had similar issues. Think I soaked it too long.

No it’s not lol. There are thousands of makers that can hand forge a blade and not have grinder marks!

There is two ways of looking at this from the buyers perspective: (1) you are using Kydex as part of your business. It’s simply a cost of doing business, change your markup and pass it on. (2) you are using Kydex as part of your hobby. Either get a new hobby, or accept that it will cost you...

I gotta mow the jungle in my backyard today, waiting for the grass to dry, I figured I’d shape the handle on this. The handle is 1/2” plywood, it will be replaced by stacked birch bark after I get the G10 shaped how I want it. I think the plywood actually looks kinda neat! The rest of it is...

I love Scagels knives, the sort of “organic” way they are shaped. I like where you’re going with this!

If I’m forging it I don’t bother. Stock removal, it does take the bark off and makes it a little easier. I forge most of my stuff, and rarely have it done. It’s only $6, if you want it, do it.

I made a take down nut today! 304 SS flower. I’ll heat color it blue right before assembly.

I would be massively P.O’d if I bought a press and it was 25% less than advertised. It absolutely does not matter if it “works”, it’s not what it was sold as. Be like selling a “V6” car to someone and when they open the hood, it’s a 4 cylinder.

If you’re doing it by hand, 15 layers is a LOT of hammering!

I think that looks cool. IMO, I would have just done the two main pins. Looks a bit “busy” with the 4 mosaics in it. I also am not a fan of the bevel “breaking the back” on blades, I think they look better if the plunges end at the spine. The white handle is pretty. That’s a sweet knife.

yeah I’m working on a stacked birch handle right now, I ended up buying a couple hundred dollars worth of bark, just to get enough decent material. It’s awesome to work with, and might be the prettiest handle, IMO

I think O1 makes a decent blade. Adding extra vanadium could vary the heat treat anywhere from not much at all, to quite a bit. Can you make a decent knife from it? Sure. You can probably make a decent blade just by getting it non magnetic for a bit then quenching it in canola oil. But you...

I love stacked birch, and stacked leather. Nice looking knives!

That’s pretty much the reason I don’t use AEBL. After the quench, there would be so much RA that the steel could still be bent like mild steel. After cryo it was stiff. It’s kinda weird to work with. Definitely needs a cryo.