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The only time you'll need air assist is when engraving/cutting leather or wood. It does help then. Here are a couple of lasers in your price range. I don't know anything about this first one and are all shipped from USA. They all have the small spot, .08mm dot size which is good...

Looks good Chris. We do enjoy our lasers don't we? Even my wife enjoys my laser due to putting her name on some of her drinking mugs

Why? with laser harden steel etches just fine, and I'm not all all sure I've tried electro etching HC before quenching

With the price of Cer-Mark at $25 for 2 oz on Amazon https://www.amazon.com/dp/B08NRFX6RB I'll stay with spray on black paint - "IF" I need darker etches. The OLM3 does a pretty good job on bare metal without any paint. I just used the paint playing around and found a decent black image...

I've got my Ortur laser set at 200mm/min and sometimes even at 100mm/min and do use 100% with 1 pass. I have used 500mm/min with 4 passes. Something I've found for a "blacker" mark is to paint the SS with black spray paint and burn thru that. It almost seems like it "burns" the paint into...

https://usaknifemaker.com/ceramic-glass-platen-liner-for-flat-platen.html Just choose the length required for your platen. These glass platens are hard to cut for shortening.

That's a non-walking foot sewing machine? How does it work with 2 or 3 layers of 8 oz leather for sheaths?

That is one sexy controller on that oven - wish I had that controller on my oven..... Heck, I wish I had your oven :)

I totally agree the oven comes first..... laser is proving to be fun :)

Thanks Dennis - I've always admired your leather work.

Outstanding hamon - the knife really looks good. As usual your leather work is outstanding also. That's not basketweave, and it looks really deep. Tell us more about it.

Start your own thread on the press build - we'd LOVE to watch as the project progresses.

Impressive.

The only thing the air assist is really needed is when engraving leather, wood, or similar stuff. For engraving metal it's not needed at all - not that I can tell anyway.

Welcome aboard - if you're a knifemaker, please post some photos of your work. If not, as a chef post photos of your favorite design knives and why they're your favorite, and perhaps any changes you'd like to see. That would be very educational for us on kitchen knife design.

Here's a link to a decent Wa handle tutorial. I'm sure it could be adapted to any hidden tang knife. https://coltonhandcrafted.com/2018/11/11/wa-handle-dimensions-and-shaping/

Here's a video showing how this guy built a simple integral grinding attachment.

Congrats - be sure to post some etches you do. While the OLM3 10 watt I have does pretty good marking steel, if it's painted black befor engraving the finished image really comes out nice. AND seems to hold up really good.

I'm NOT an expert at all, but have read Singer made some carbine receivers that other manuf's finished to complete carbines? Of course owning one of those 500 .45 auto 1911 pistols would be neat - I've read a value over $30K.

Jesse, that looks pretty much what I rigged up a couple yrs ago for finishing blades. Life the platen 1/8" above the roller, lay blade flat as grinder is running in reverse and it puts a really nice flat finish to the blade with almost no grind marks. Even an 80 grit belt will surprise you...