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I have an early Habanero model with the old style burners which does not have the removable end plate or the oval shape and wide door and it is still really good. Don't ever let anyone tell you that a good venturi forge will have trouble reaching forge welding heat. Mine replaced an NC...

Chile

I have used the dark grey in big grits and the orange ones i think in fine. So you are saying that the green ones worked best for you I need some more and i use them on CruForgeV which is not an easy steel to hand sand. IIRC, I had some 1 x 1/4 x 6 and maybe some 3/4 wide ones.

I really like that design, but I just cant get excited about those "resin" handle materials. Don't get me started on the stuff where you have blue resin mated up to a "live edge" piece of wood. :eek:

Horrid! Now go make another one. :D Just kidding about the first part, but not the second. ;)

How do you think that some of those old line German kitchen knife companies make their 'Integral" stainless kitchen knives? Blade material comes off of a roll. Bolsters are forge welded to the blade stock using induction heat from what I can tell,. There are videos of the process on youtube.

Don Hanson used to use fine gold. That got a bit expensive. Even with peening, he used a particular type of Loctite glue. Of course, you could always gently forge weld them to the blade. ;)

Hmmm. Another idea of what could be done with my EXTREMELY limited supply of small pieces of old growth Brazilian. I still have a fair amount of super dark blackwood. Now tell us how you did the inletting. ;)

Now all you need is a small wheel version for integral grinding. :D

Yes. it can be less expensive. :eek: Do you weld up your 410 san mai billet edges?

I have enough W2, CFV, 1084, 1075, 5160, O1, L6, etc in stock to make like 700+ knives. What is giving my sticker shock is the peripheral stuff like 15N20 and non-blade steels for fittings, cladding etc.

I use it for guards, buttcaps, etc. Even after cleaning out my shop, I still have a couple of 36 x 2 x 1/4 bars of 416. I was looking at 410 or 420 for san mai cladding.

So is $16 a pound what passes for reasonable these days? That what that adds up to and it is like 25% more than stainless blade steel. So much for the old adage about steel being a very small percentage of your costs. ;)

So why do these these steels so expensive? I found 2 sources, Alro and McMaster Carr that has 420 bars for hundreds of dollars of like 1/4 inch x 2 inch flats 12-24 inches long. Like over $100 a pound!!! 410 was not quite so bad, but Jantz had stuff for lalmost $20 a pound!!!!!

The other day, I was wondering how birds eye crushed W's would look. Now I know. ;) Not quite as dramatic as the some laddered blades I have seen but still different.

Yes. A2 if I recall. Nathan Carothers platen.

I have two platens, one 18 inch radius (36 inch wheel) and one that is a 36". I use them a lot for griding clips and swedges. Get the radius and then just lay the blade over for the swedge. I have done a couple of knives with the "big wheel" shallow hollow grind. Works well, but you have to...

Yes.

I do believe that those medium fast oils are 11-13 oil and the speed is detrmned by the temperature. 120f or 180F gives you 13 second and 150F give you 11 second. That was what Houghton said IIRC. Their oil is also repackaged and sold by Brownells as Tough Quench, at least last time that I...

Both. I know some people use parks 50 for everything, but my experience said that at some point you’re gonna need something like AAA for thin cross sections of deeper hardening steel. You only need one blade coming apart on you to make it worth it. Unfortunately, the AAA type stuff does require...