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Lats year Kev and I swapped on the KITH and decided to make frame handle knives. Kev posted some nice pics of how it was done. https://knifedogs.com/threads/kev-owl-kith-wip.53262/

It could be a frame handle construction.

I like 3 also. It looks nice as it parallels the plunge line.

oops.... https://www.nicholasimpregnatedwood.com/shop He has very high quality stabilizing and dye saturation.

Here's one I forgot:

It's an addiction. No cure....just keep buying and keep it quiet....

If you are looking for high grade desert ironwood, you should check out sonoraironwood on eBay. I've gotten a lot of great ironwood from him, and his prices are moderate. He sells scales and blocks.

Well, the way these KITHs are usually run, we just send out the best work we can do and accept what we receive without complaint. You may receive a knife that is lower quality than you sent out, but your comments can help that maker improve.

I have a lot to get done before Christmas, but I'd like to be in. Since it is a Christmas KITH will that be the due date?

Sorry to hear this. RIP Pop.

Welcome to KD! Glad you are here!

I believe that striking the blade on the convex side was the primary cause of the break. As KenH pointed out, that hardened blade would flex with each blow, and the wrong side was being spread by the hammer blows.

I have used the hammer technique to straighten maybe 40-50 blades over the past several years, and I haven't seen any weakness or cracks in the blades. I asked the same question about possible cracking or stresses on the other forum and several people said they had not seen any problems...

I haven't ever tried it, but I have read that you can sandblast a warped blade and straighten it. It is the same idea, and evidently the same stretching of the steel occurs with the blasting media on a much smaller scale. Anyone ever tried that? You wouldn't have the divots to grind out at least.

You can find 1/4" carbide rod blanks on eBay pretty cheap. I have also used broken carbide drill bits. Cut them using a Dremel with an abrasive disc.

Take a look at this:

Yes, I have built several from old ball peen hammers. I drill a 1/4" hole in the ball and insert a carbide rod. The carbide is very hard, but you can shape it on a ceramic belt.

I also use a good bit of AEB-L from NJSB, and like everyone else I get frequent warps, especially on thinner material. I do what tkroenlein does in the temper, but sometimes the blades are still warped. I use a carbide tipped hammer to correct that. It only takes 30 seconds, but you have to be...

Last year I bought a HF spot welder ( the 240 volt model ) and used it to weld some 0.125" AEBL bolsters to AEBL liners. It worked perfectly after I practiced with some scrap and got the timing figured out. With the total thickness of the parts I was pushing the limits of the machine.

Really looks great Ken. I hope to try forging some CuMai in the next few months.